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How to Dry Fresh Herbs at Home 

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Learning how to dry fresh herbs at home is easy, and there's no replacement or substitute for doing it yourself. Learn the best methods for drying herbs at home in this post!

dried herbs in Mason jar on counter

Growing an herb garden is an excellent place for a beginner gardener to start, and making your spice blends at home is a frugal way to save on your grocery bill.

Why I Love Growing and Cooking With Herbs

When drying your own herbs, you know that they haven't been sitting on the shelf at the grocery store for years, and your food will taste much better because you are using ingredients from your garden. 

Cooking with fresh herbs is incredible. I love adding fresh basil before serving my homemade tomato soup, and dill to this Ukrainian Borscht recipe, or having rosemary, thyme, and sage on hand to make marinated cheese balls. 

The depth of flavor is so much more than the dried version. However, if you live in a climate that has cooler winters, then not all of your garden herbs are available year-round. 

So like any true Pioneer, we're preserving our herbs for use during the winter. When cooking with dried herbs, I put the herbs in at the end of the cooking time to maximize the flavor.

If you're looking for more of a fresh herb flavor, try preserving herbs in salt following this homemade celery salt recipe or this recipe for preserving fresh basil.

A pot of basil on a deck.

When to Harvest Herbs

It's crucial to know how to prune and harvest herbs correctly because you want to get the most flavor out of your herbs.

As an herb grows, it has the most intense flavor in the leaves just before it flowers. If you aren't ready to harvest, it's best to clip off the flower buds to keep the plant from putting its energy into the flowers.

The best time of day to harvest herbs is in the early morning. Herbs have the highest concentration of oils in their leaves at this time of day. You want to gather right after the dew has dried but before the sun begins to heat the air and plant.

Basil is the exception to this rule and can be picked later in the morning.

Fresh celery leaves in a colandar.

How to Harvest Herbs

The part of an herb used for cooking is generally the leafy part. I find it best to use scissors and cut off the entire stem to prevent the leaves' oils from rubbing off on your skin. Minimally handling the plant allows oil to retain more in the leaves when needed.

Lightly rinse the herbs to remove any dust or other unseen debris. I'm sure you practice organic gardening at home, so we don't have to worry about any chemicals or pesticides.

Place herbs on paper towels to absorb the excess water and dry completely.

Bundles of fresh herbs laying on a wooden table.

Drying Methods Used to Dry Herbs

There are several ways to dry herbs. The two ways I prefer are the hanging method and using a dehydrator.

  • Dehydrator – This is the method I use most because of our damp weather in the Pacific Northwest. After a ton of research, I purchased my Nesco Square Dehydrator due to its design to hold more food per tray than the circle varieties, and I liked the price point. I've had my Nesco for more than five years and love it. We've dehydrated fruit leather, jerky, candied apples, and herbs. I've run it for two days straight without any problems, and it's extremely quiet. You can also purchase mesh tray liners here.
  • Hanging Method – This method (also known as air drying) requires no special equipment, and anyone can do it. 
  • Freezing – Freezing is an option that some people find retains more flavor. You can add frozen herbs directly to your food when cooking, which works best in foods such as meats and vegetables.
  • Oven Dry – I don't recommend drying fresh herbs in the oven, as most ovens' lowest setting isn't low enough to allow the herbs to dry without burning to a crisp.
Bundles of fresh herbs tied with twine and hanging upside down to dry.

How to Dry Fresh Herbs – Hanging Method

Tying the stems together in this method is critical. Moisture content reduces as the herbs dry, and they shrink together. Another vital part to remember is to hang them upside down. Gravity pulls the essential oil into the leaves, which is the part we want to keep.

Supplies Needed

  • Fresh Herbs – Make sure your herbs are freshly cut with no spots or bruising on the leaves.
  • Twine, String, or Rubber Band – You'll need something to secure the stalks together.
  • Dry Location – A dry location out of direct sunlight with plenty of airflow is necessary for the best drying environment. Pro-Tip: If you don't have a place away from sunlight, use a paper bag to cover the herbs as they dry. Paper bags will also protect the herbs from dust that may settle onto them as they hang to dry. Simply create a hole in the bottom of the bag for the stems to poke through and hang the bag around the herbs.
  • Hook or Nail – This is needed to secure the upside-down bunch of herbs. 

Instructions

  1. Tie the ends of four or five stalks together.
  2. Hang the bunches upside down in a warm, dry area, out of direct sunlight.
  3. Allow herbs to dry until the leaves crumble at your touch.
  4. Remove the leaves from the stems, keeping them as whole as possible (this allows for more flavor when it comes time to use them).
  5. Store the dried leaves in an air-tight container (you know how I love a good Mason jar!).
  6. Label contents of the container.

Note: Moisture content and climate will be factors, and it could take weeks to months for herbs to dry. Just be patient and use the paper bag trick if you're concerned about dust or debris.

Raspberry leaves on a dehydrator tray.

How to Dry Fresh Herbs – Dehydrator Method

Supplies Needed

  • Fresh Herbs – Make sure the herbs are fresh with no spots or bruising on the leaves.
  • Food Dehydrator – Any dehydrator should work. If you have a Nesco like mine, try these Nesco screens. Herbs shrink as they dry, and these screens keep them from falling through the cracks.

Instructions

  1. Place herbs in a single layer on the food dehydrator tray or drying rack, ensuring they aren't touching.
  2. Herbs dry best at 95° F. If you live in an area with high humidity, you may need to increase the temperature slightly, but try to stay as low as possible to maintain as many nutrients as possible.
  3. Dehydrating times for herbs will vary depending on the size of the leaves and the moisture content. Some herbs will dry in 12 to 24 hours, and others may take several days.
  4. Herbs are dry when they crumble at your touch.
  5. Store the dried leaves in an airtight container.
  6. Label contents of the container.

Pro-Tip: Herbs don't transfer flavors when drying, so you can dry them together. I have dehydrated four trays at once with chocolate mint, spearmint, oregano, basil, and thyme.

How to Tell When Herbs Are Dehydrated

Take a leaf between your thumb and pointer finger to test if the herbs are dry. It should crunch and crumble when pressed.

If you're unsure whether herbs are dry, you can take them out of the dehydrator and place them immediately into a ziptop baggie. Seal the bag and watch for any condensation to form on the inside of the bag. If you see any moisture, they're not dry yet.

The smaller the item, the faster it will degrade and lose its flavor. Leave the leaf in its largest form for storage and grind it up before use.

Dried herbs in a mason jar.

How to Store Dried Herbs

After the drying process, it's time to get them packaged in containers and stored on the shelf. It's best to keep dried herbs in a dark, cool, dry place to retain the most flavor and extend the shelf life.

Store herbs in an air-tight container. I prefer glass jars as plastic containers seem to affect the flavor of the herbs over time.

Mason or Weck jars work well for herbs. Make sure to label the contents of each container.

How to Use Dried Herbs

Here are my favorite herb blends to make (including FREE printable labels for the jars!).

Have you dried herbs at home? Share your experiences below! Especially if you have any favorite herb blends to share.

A woman pointing to a basil plant where it's starting to flower.

More Posts About Herbs and Their Uses

How to Can Green Beans the Easy Way – Raw Pack

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Learn how to can green beans the easy way using the raw pack method. This is the perfect tutorial for beginner canners and those who want their fresh green beans preserved for year-round eating without a ton of prep work.

Homecanned green beans on towel

Choose freshly picked green beans, rinse clean, snap to bite-size pieces, place in jars and cover with boiling water, then pressure can for just 20 minutes! Easy peasy and no need to pre-cook or blanch your green beans.

Green beans were the first thing I learned how to can on my own as a newlywed over twenty years ago (I was 18-years-old when I got married, I'll spare you the math) and I've never bought green beans from the store and neither will you after seeing how easy it is to can them at home. Especially once you taste them, they're full of flavor! My kids refuse to eat green beans from the store or restaurants because they taste nothing like home-canned green beans.

Supplies needed to can green beans

Pressure canner (here's how to pick the best pressure canner for your stove-type and budget)
Canning jars
Canning lids and bands (I buy my canning lids in bulk sleeves here)
Jar lifter
Kitchen towel
Bubble popper/headspace measurer (or a ruler)

Ingredients for canning green beans

Fresh green beans – on average you'll need 1 pound of green beans per pint (or 2 pounds per quart)
Canning salt (salt is optional but trust me, you want to add it or beans will be extremely bland tasting)

How do you prepare green beans for canning

  1. Pick your green beans, avoid beans that have blemishes or rust spots, choose beans that are tender, and crisp when snapped. The beans will be the crispest when picked in the morning.
  2. Rinse green beans thoroughly then strain.
  3. Trim off ends, string if beans are a string variety, and snap into 1 to 1 and 1/2 inch (bite-sized) pieces.fresh green beans being snapped in bowl on counter for pressure canning

How to Can Green Beans

Step 1

Place pressure canner on stove-top and fill with rack and hot water, water level should be 2 to 3 inches deep. Turn burner on medium heat to keep water at 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Fill a kettle with water and bring to a boil.

Step 2

Wash Mason jars and lids in hot soapy water. DO NOT boil the lids. Canning lid guidelines changed in 2014 and boiling the lids can affect their ability to seal. You do not need to sterilize lids or jars as long as you're processing jars for 10 minutes or longer (which you definitely are when pressure canning). Place freshly washed jars on a clean towel on the counter.

green beans inside mason jars before canning

Step 3

Fill Mason jars with green beans to a 1-inch headspace (space from the top of the green beans to the top of the jar). Add 1/2 teaspoon salt to pint jars or 1 teaspoon salt to quart jars (salt is optional but does provide better flavor). Always use canning salt or sea salt with NO added anti-caking agents or ingredients, regular table salt is not recommended.

Pouring boiling water onto fresh green beans before pressure canning

Step 4

Pour just off the boil water over the top of the green beans until the liquid level reaches the 1-inch headspace.

removing air bubbles when pressure canning green beans

Step 5

Use a canner bubble/headspace tool (or ruler if you don't have a headspace tool) to remove air bubbles by running it between the glass and outside of the food. Remeasure your headspace and add extra water if needed.

Step 6

Use a damp cloth and wipe the rim of your glass jar clean. This helps to ensure there's nothing that will inhibit a seal from forming. Place lid and canning band on and tighten to fingertip tight (over-tightening canning bands can cause lids to buckle). Place in the prepared pressure canner.

Step 7

Place lid on the pressure canner and allow to vent for 10 minutes. Then place weight on pressure canner according to your altitude and process for 20 minutes for pint jars or  25 minutes for quart jars. Remove from canner following pressure canning protocol 

Can you can green beans without a pressure canner? Can you can green beans in a water bath?

Green beans are a low-acid vegetable and must be pressure canned. The only safe way to water bath can green beans is if they're pickled, the addition of vinegar changes the pH level to 4.6, making them safe to water bath can.

How long is home-canned green beans good for?

The National Center of Home Food Preservation states that home-canned food is best used within 12 months for optimal nutritional benefits but provided you followed tested times/procedures and store canned goods out of direct sunlight and below 90 degrees Fahrenheit, they will be good for years. We practice rotation and try to use all of our home-canned food within 18 months but have had jars that are older and the food has been fine.

Do you cook green beans before canning?

I prefer to use the raw pack (or cold pack) method of canning green beans. It requires less work on my part and is an approved and tested way to can. You can do a hot pack method if you wish, which involves blanching the green beans in boiling water for 5 minutes, before jarring and processing in a pressure canner.

Looking for more canning recipes and resources

Discover the 9 home food preservation methods to safely store delicious food for year-round eating with Melissa’s step-by-step tutorials, recipes, and easy-to-use charts. Get ready to learn everything you need to know about cold storage (aka freezer), water bath/steam canning, pressure canning, dehydrating, fermenting, freeze-drying, root cellar, infusion, and salt/curing!

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How to Can Green Beans the Easy Way – Raw Pack

Melissa Norris
Preserve your fresh green beans for year-round eating with this easy tutorial on how to can green beans. You'll never go back to store-bought after experiencing the flavor difference of homegrown and home-canned green beans! Go through my free video series on how to pressure can without fear and safely!
3.95 from 40 votes
Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Prep Time 30 mins
Cook Time 20 mins
Course side
Cuisine American
Servings 9 pints

Equipment

  • Pressure Canner

Ingredients
 
 

  • 9 pounds fresh green beans
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt (per pint jar)

Instructions
 

  • Pick your green beans, avoid beans that have blemishes or rust spots, choose beans that are tender, and crisp when snapped.
  • Rinse green beans thoroughly then strain. Trim off ends, string if beans are a string variety, and snap into 1 to 1 and 1/2 inch (bite-sized) pieces.
  • Place pressure canner on stove-top and fill with rack and hot water, water level should be 2 to 3 inches deep. Turn burner on medium heat to keep water at 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Fill a kettle with water and bring to a boil.
  • Wash Mason jars and lids in hot soapy water. DO NOT boil the lids. Canning lid guidelines changed in 2014 and boiling the lids can affect their ability to seal. You do not need to sterilize lids or jars as long as you’re processing jars for 10 minutes or longer (which you definitely are when pressure canning). Place freshly washed jars on a clean towel on the counter.
  • Fill Mason jars with green beans to a 1-inch headspace (space from the top of the green beans to the top of the jar). Add 1/2 teaspoon salt to pint jars or 1 teaspoon salt to quart jars (salt is optional but does provide better flavor).
  • Pour just off the boil water over the top of the green beans until the liquid level reaches the 1-inch headspace.
  • Use a canner bubble/headspace tool (or ruler if you don’t have a headspace tool) to remove air bubbles by running it between the glass and outside of the food. Remeasure your headspace and add extra water if needed.
  • Use a damp cloth and wipe the rim of your glass jar clean. This helps to ensure there’s nothing that will inhibit a seal from forming. Place lid and canning band on and tighten to fingertip tight (over-tightening canning bands can cause lids to buckle). Place in the prepared pressure canner.
  • Place lid on the pressure canner and allow to vent for 10 minutes. Process at 10 pounds of pressure if you’re zero to 1,000 feet above sea level and if 1,001 feet above sea level use 15 pounds, start timer when pressure is reached (weight should be rocking and hissing). Process for 20 minutes for pint jars or  25 minutes for quart jars. Remove from canner following pressure canning protocol 
  • Allow jars to cool for 12 to 24 hours before removing bands and checking seals. Then store in cool area out of direct sunlight.

Video

Notes

  • The beans will be the crispest when picked in the morning. Only use blemish-free green beans.
  • Use the salt, beans will be tasteless without it (ask me how I know). Always use canning salt or sea salt with NO added anti-caking agents or ingredients, regular table salt is not recommended.
  • You’ll need 1 pound per pint or 2 pounds per quart jar
Keyword how to can green beans
Tried this recipe?Let us know how it was!

Coffee Grounds in the Garden (4 Ways to Use Them)

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Using coffee grounds in the garden is the best way to use what you would likely just throw in the garbage. Before you plant, learn the best ways you can put those old coffee grounds to good use.

Coffee grounds in a woman's hands by the garden.

Vegetables like the benefits coffee grounds in the garden provide. Whether you are prepping your garden bed before you plant or nearing your harvest, you can put those old coffee grounds to good use.

Lessons from Our Ancestors

One of the things I love about the pioneer lifestyle is that they didn’t let things go to waste. They reused old clothes as patches for other items and were frugal with their property out of necessity.

Even though we love our modern conveniences, I believe there are several things our great-grandparents did better than us.

One thing most of us have in our homes is coffee grounds! If you're like me, you enjoy a good cup of coffee on a daily basis.

Don’t toss those old grounds when you’re done with them. In true pioneer fashion, let’s put them to good use.

Coffee grounds in the garden around strawberry plants.

Help Your Plants Thrive with Coffee Grounds

There are varied opinions on whether or not coffee grounds should be used in the garden. The health and pH level of the soil you already have indicates whether or not it will be super beneficial. 

Some coffee grounds are acidic and might harm plants. Learn how to get your soil tested, and do the necessary research to help you reach a decision.

As a rule, coffee grounds will add nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus to the soil. As with adding any organic matter, there are certain methods to follow before you use it in the garden.

I Don’t Drink Coffee – Where Do I Find Grounds?

Even if you don’t drink coffee, you can still get your hands on some grounds!

If your coffee-drinking friends use theirs for their own garden, check with your local coffee shops.

Many smaller coffee shops will toss their grounds into a 5-gallon bucket and save them for you (even better if you provide the bucket!). Starbucks saves their used coffee grounds and has them available on a first come first serve basis. 

Coffee grounds in a coffee filter on burlap.

Can I Use Fresh Coffee Grounds in the Garden?

There is some evidence that fresh coffee grounds deter pests such as slugs and snails.

However fresh coffee grounds are not recommended because of the caffeine content which can be harmful to plants. It's best to use coffee grounds that have already been brewed. The caffeine will have been leached out of the ground beans and into your coffee!

Here are other natural ways to deter pests from the garden.

A woman under a high tunnel working in the garden.

Using Coffee Grounds in the Garden

Coffee grounds are extremely versatile and can be incorporated into many gardening tasks. Here are my favorite ways I have used coffee grounds in the garden.

Fertilizer

Coffee grounds as fertilizer provide nitrogen to the soil as well as some resistance to common fungal rot and even blossom end rot. This is a great additive for the soil around plants like tomatoes as they are susceptible to blossom end rot.

The level of acid left in used coffee grounds will vary. Sprinkle used coffee grounds around plants that love acid such as:

  • Blueberries
  • Raspberries
  • Azaleas
  • Rhododendrons
  • Hydrangeas

Pro-tip: Spread it out in a thin layer around the acid-loving plants or rake it lightly into the soil. Coffee grounds tend to clump together which can create a water barrier. 

In addition to coffee grounds, there are many ways to use organic material to improve your garden soil. Check out the six natural garden fertilizers that I work into my routine.

Image of a compost pile with a thermometer in it.

Compost

One of the easiest, yet best ways to get the benefits of coffee grounds in the garden is to put coffee grounds in your compost bin. You can even throw in the paper coffee filters!

Coffee grounds are considered a green compost material, so make sure to add brown compost material such as dried leaves along with it. Keep coffee grounds to 20% of your volume for best results.

Read about 7 ways to start your compost pile if you have been overwhelmed with information and don’t know where to start.

A hand scooping up a handful of woodchips from a pile.

Mulch

Coffee grounds are high in nitrogen and add minerals to the soil. By working small amounts into the top of your mulch, you can slowly add these nutrients to the soil over time.

Pro Tip – Large amounts of coffee grounds can keep oxygen and water from getting to the plants. A thin layer mixed with other materials such as wood chips is a great way to control the amount.

Check out the results of my experimentation using wood chips as mulch in my garden here.

Hands spreading coffee grounds over growing seedlings.

Seedlings

When planting new plants, add coffee grounds into the soil to give the plants an easy, quick boost. A small amount is all you need because the roots are tender and will absorb easily.

Pro-tip: Use organic coffee when putting it in the soil around your edible plants and berries. You reap the benefits twice!

Picture of a vegetable garden with mountains and a blue sky in the background.

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How to Plant Strawberries + Tips for Success

by 31 Comments

Strawberries growing on the vine.

Take out the guesswork and learn how to plant strawberries either from bare root or by transplanting seedlings in this easy step-by-step tutorial.

Whether your strawberry bed is in-ground, a raised bed, or a pot, these tips will make the most of your efforts to get the maximum harvest. Included are instructions on how to care for strawberry plants in order to grow and keep them healthy all winter long.

Why You Should Learn How to Plant Strawberries

Have you ever been disappointed when you bought strawberries at the store? You bite into the bright red berry, and it has no flavor at all! No matter how beautiful a berry may look, it is the taste that counts. 

Nothing says summer to me quite like fresh, ripe strawberries. They are not only good to eat fresh, but also delicious baked into desserts. 

Try any of the following recipes using your strawberry harvest:

Growing strawberries at home is the solution to the disappointment with store-bought berries. Allow me to teach you a few tips to show you how to plant strawberries so that you can have a successful berry harvest that tastes as it should.

Even if you have limited space, you can still grow strawberries. They actually do quite well planted in a pot or hanging baskets on your patio. I grow mine in my Greenstalk vertical tower garden (use code “PIONEERING” for $10 off your order!).

This gives you the flexibility to move them to a protected area during the winter months if needed, or follow the sun in the spring.

Vertical container planter with strawberries on cement patio

Strawberry Types and Varieties

Types of Strawberry Plants

There are several different types of strawberry plants. We plant a bed of each kind because they serve different purposes.

  • June-bearing Plants – They produce one large crop from mid-June through early July. You harvest all of the berries at the same time, which is preferable if you are preserving the berries.
  • Ever-bearing Plants – They produce two different crops. One is ready in the early summer and the other in early fall. This is a great option if you enjoy eating berries fresh.
  • Day-neutral Varieties – These plants have a longer harvest season and are often grown on plastic mulch.

Varieties of Strawberry Plants

Within the different types of strawberries, you can then choose a variety based on your growing zone, flavor preferences, and even your long-term goals. A few common varieties that do well are:

  • Earliglow – These are June-bearing, suitable for colder climates, and produce a firm, delicious berry. They are a vigorous plant and great for beginners.
  • Honeoye – These are a very productive June-bearing variety. They have an excellent flavor, are disease resistant, and are easy to grow. 
  • Ogallala – An Ever-bearing type that is drought resistant and very flavorful.

Pro Tip: If you choose a few different types/varieties of strawberries, you will have fruit most of the growing season.

A basket full of strawberries.

How Do Strawberries Grow?

Strawberries are a perennial plant that will continue to give you multiple years' worth of harvest if taken care of properly. 

Each plant produces several flowers that have yellow centers and white petals. After the yellow center is pollinated, the white petals will die off, and the yellow center then develops into the berry. 

Strawberries spread via runners that re-root and grow new plants. A container or raised bed can keep them contained in the area you want them to grow. 

Best Location To Plant Strawberries

Strawberry plants will require at least six hours of full sun. They also prefer well-drained soil. Containers, pots, and raised strawberry beds are great options for strawberries. It gives home gardeners more control over the soil as well as allowing you to choose the sunlight location. 

Pro Tip: If you are building containers or beds with wood, make sure any lumber you use is non-treated for your edible beds. Cedar is water-resistant and slow rotting, so it makes a great choice.

Dozens of strawberry plants growing in grow bags in nice orderly lines.

When is the Best Time to Plant Strawberries

The best time to plant bare-root strawberries is in the early spring as soon as the ground has thawed and is workable. However, if you have strawberry seedlings, the best time will be after the danger of frost has passed.

A strawberry plant being planted in the soil.

Supplies Needed

  • Strawberry Seedlings or Bare Root Plants – Keep in mind seedlings should be planted after any danger of frost has passed.
  • Soil – Strawberries don’t require heavy fertilization, but they will benefit from an organic compost potting soil mix. To learn how to make your own compost, check out these 7 DIY ways to compost at home. Additionally, strawberries need to be kept moist, but their roots don’t tolerate standing water. Good drainage is a must! If you have clay soil, make sure to amend it with a good compost mix. You can learn how to easily test and amend your soil here.
  • Shovel – Strawberries don’t need to be planted too deeply, so a garden trowel works well.
  • Sunshine – Strawberries require at least 6 hours of full sun per day, and will do even better with more.
  • Water – Bare root plants will need to be soaked in water for at least 30 minutes to an hour before planting. Take care to only submerge the roots in the water. For tips on garden watering strategies, check out the best way to water a vegetable garden.
Strawberries in 4 inch pots.

How To Plant Strawberries

  1. If planting bare roots, soak in water at least 30 minutes before planting.
  2. For container planting choose a pot at least 8 inches in diameter and 6 inches deep for each plant. For in-ground and raised bed planting, dig a hole about 4-6 inches deep. The recommended distance between June-bearing strawberry plants is 15-24 inches and Ever-bearing plants is 10-18 inches apart.
    Pro Tip: Strawberries can be susceptible to fungus, so keeping space for good air circulation is your best defense. If you plant them at the minimum spacing suggestions, you’ll need to keep the runners removed so your plants don’t become crowded. An additional benefit is the berries will ripen more quickly if they’re not crammed together!
  3. Firm up a cone of soil in the center of the hole. 
  4. Place the strawberry plant on the cone and arrange the roots around the cone. Fill in the hole with soil, and tamp down lightly.
  5. Water the strawberry plant, making sure the crown of the plant remains at soil level or slightly above.
Strawberries ready to pick off the vine.

Caring For Strawberry Plants

  • Spring – After you have planted the strawberries in early spring, make sure to pinch off any flowers that bud for the first few weeks. You want the plants to conserve energy for when they pollinate and produce fruit. Looking for more direction on what to do in the garden during the spring? Check out gardening in March, gardening in April, and gardening in May where I break down each garden task by month.
  • Summer – During the summer, as the runners start to grow, turn them in the direction you want them to fill in your garden and press the ends gently into the soil. Continue to water and fertilize (compost) the plants throughout harvesting.
  • Fall – When the plants stop producing fruit and the temperature drops, cover the plants with 6” of straw mulch to protect them through the winter months.
  • Winter – For in-ground planting and raised beds, the straw mulch will be enough to protect the plants over the winter. However, you should move potted strawberries into a high tunnel, garage, or another shelter that will protect them from extreme freezing temperatures. Alternatively, you can bury plastic pots (not terracotta) so that the top of the pot is flush with the ground. Looking for more direction on what to do in the garden during the winter?
A woman kneeling down in the garden harvesting tomatoes into a basket.

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Where to Find Morel Mushrooms

by 32 Comments

Morel mushrooms are a delicacy that many of us can’t wait to hunt for every spring season. However, where to find morel mushrooms is the million-dollar question! A great morel mushroom hunter will not quickly give up his or her “spot”, but they will likely share their tips on when they grow and the best type of terrain to find them.

Morel mushrooms in a group growing in the wild.

If you are successful and find some of these coveted treasures, try cooking them up in this delicious quiche recipe.

*Disclaimer-this post is strictly for educational purposes. We are in no way liable if you pick morels or any other mushroom and become sick or suffer from any type of reaction or illness. Please pick responsibly.  

Why I Love Morel Mushroom Hunting

Living off the land has been something my family has practiced for generations. Learning to forage morel mushrooms is one of those practices that has been handed down through the generations.

Hunting for morel mushrooms is one of our favorite springtime activities. Growing up, we didn’t take family vacations because my father worked all year long. However, we did go morel mushroom hunting.

Mushroom hunting season always reminded me of an Easter egg hunt. Except, we were searching for mushrooms, and it lasted longer. We searched the leaf-carpeted forest floor for signs of the mushrooms and yelled loudly when we spotted one.

Morel mushrooms in a basket on the forest floor.

Where to Find Morel Mushrooms

Morel mushrooms are fungi. Soil temperatures and moisture are determining factors for when and where they grow.

Morels won’t grow if the soil is too hot or too cold, and they thrive in a moist environment. For this reason, you will often find them growing underneath last year’s fallen leaves.

If you live near a forest that has been clear cut, the ground has been disturbed, or a wildfire has burned through, expect to find more morels in these areas.

Morel mushroom hunters should be on the lookout for recent disturbances (or even dying trees) that still have foliage growth. The morel fungus will be trying to attach to the remaining foliage so that it can disperse and reproduce.

When Can You Find Morel Mushrooms?

Morel mushrooms will start growing in the spring after a good, warm rain. If you live where stinging nettles grow, watch for them to start popping up, and you’ll know the morels will be following suit!

Morel mushrooms will grow quickly, so we check for them every three days once the signs are out. The first one is usually the hardest to spot. Once you’ve found one, your eye becomes trained and knows what it’s looking for.

Morel mushrooms in a cast iron pan.

How to Find Morel Mushrooms

Now that we know when and where to find morel mushrooms, let’s talk about how to find them.

Of course, this is easiest if you know that the spot you are searching already has mushrooms!

The best method I have found is to scan the ground in a grid-like pattern. Inspect the area as you would a map. Look at it from every angle, scanning the area a few feet in front of you, and then move out with your eyes while walking slowly.

Pro Tip: If you find one, look closely. They usually have a mate!

What Do I Do With Morel Mushrooms?

Soak morels overnight in salt water @MelissaKNorris
  • Harvest – Carefully cut or pinch off the morel leaving the stem intact. This leaves the root in the ground and allows it to produce morels again. If you pull up the stem and roots, you cut into future harvests.

  • Carry – I like to carry a mesh bag with me, so the spores repopulate the area while I continue searching. Be sure to not overfill whatever container you choose to place the morel mushrooms into. The weight of too many can smash the mushrooms and ruin them. 
  • Clean – When you get the morels home, you will need to soak them overnight. Since they grow in the forest, they might have small bugs or worms on them. If you can see lots of worms or bites, it’s best to discard them. Place the mushrooms in a bowl of cold water and sprinkle them with salt. Cover them completely and store them in the fridge overnight.
Dozens of morel mushrooms laid out on a cutting board.

How Do I Identify Morel Mushrooms?

Morel mushrooms have a very distinct look and come in all sorts of colors. I have never found black morels, but I have found white and yellow morels.

Look for mushrooms that have a cone-shaped top with lots of deep crevices resembling a sponge. They will be hollow inside if they are true morel mushrooms.

What Are False Morel Mushrooms?

If you have never hunted for a wild mushroom, it is best if you find an experienced hunter or take a field guide with you. There are many poisonous mushrooms that can lead to extreme sickness and even death. Make sure you are finding edible mushrooms!

There is only one type of false morel. A real morel will have a wrinkly cap, a very distinct look, and be hollow inside. False morels look the same as true morels on the outside but will not be hollow on the inside.

A closeup of a hand picking a morel mushroom.

Additional FAQs

What Is the Best Time of Day to Find Morel Mushrooms?

The best time of day is in the early morning. The angle of the sun helps to light up the mushrooms and makes them easier to find.

During the day, the warmth from the sun can also dry up the mushrooms causing them to shrivel which makes it more difficult to spot them.

What Month Can You Find Morel Mushrooms?

The best month to hunt for morel mushrooms is somewhat dependent on where you live, but the morel mushrooms season is usually from April to the middle of May.

What Is the Best State to Find Morel Mushrooms In?

There really isn’t a specific state in the US to recommend. Temperature and moisture conditions in each state are what determine when and where to find morel mushrooms.

Purple dead nettle growing in a patch.

Related Posts

How to Braid Garlic (Step-By-Step Photos)

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One of the things our pioneer forefathers did well was preserving their harvest. There is no sense doing all the hard work of growing a crop if we don't preserve it to last.

A bunch of garlic that's been braided.

I like a crop that is also pretty to look at. Those jars of jams and jellies lining my pantry sparkle as bright as any jeweled necklace to me.

Our first year with garlic, we planted the hard neck variety, not realizing you couldn't braid it.  Live and learn. With over a decade of growing garlic under my belt, I've learned a lot and share it in how to plant garlic here.

My predominant garlic crop is the soft neck, specifically Inchelium Red, (here's how to harvest garlic for long-term storage). I do plant a few hard necks to use first in the fall.

Scissors trimming off the dried roots of a bulb of garlic.

After your garlic has been cured for at least two weeks in dry weather (or four weeks in wet and humid weather), it's time to get it ready for braiding. Cut off the roots and rub as much of the leftover soil off as possible.

A head of garlic that has the roots trimmed off.

Take the two leaves closest to the bulb and peel them back. You'll peel off the dirty outer layer. Don't remove any more skin as this helps lock in the flavor.

A woman's hands showing how to braid garlic.
A woman's hands showing how to braid garlic.
A woman's hands showing how to braid garlic.

Now take three bulbs of garlic, bulb side at the top with the stems hanging down. Tie them together near the bulb. This is the start of your braid. Take a bulb and lay it on the center stem and add the stem to it. Now cross over your right side stem.

A woman's hands showing how to braid garlic.
A woman's hands showing how to braid garlic.
A woman's hands showing how to braid garlic.

Take a bulb, place it to the right of your center bulb, pulling the stem down the center. Cross over the left stem to the center. Place a bulb on the left side of the center bulb and pull the stem to the center. Cross over top the original center stems.

Always add the new bulb stem to the center of your braid.

A woman's hands showing how to braid garlic.

Repeat this process to the end. Once all bulbs are in place, braid the stems (they'll be quite a handful) into a braid and secure with twine. Cut off the remaining stems so just your braid is showing.

Braided garlic hanging on the wall in a kitchen.

Now hang it up in the kitchen for easy access and a gorgeous piece of decoration.

Store the remaining braids out of direct light, a back pantry is wonderful, ideally in temps between 60 and 65 degrees F with low humidity.

Do you have a favorite crop or harvest you like to put on display? Do you have a favorite variety of garlic?

Easy No Knead Artisan Bread Recipe

by 222 Comments

This easy no-knead artisan bread recipe takes just 5 minutes a day and uses only 5 ingredients. It has a soft and fluffy inside and a perfectly crunchy crust. Everything bread should be without all the work! This step-by-step tutorial will have you turning out loaves of homemade goodness in no time.

artisan bread on parchment paper

I first fell in love with this bread when I had toddlers at home, was working full time, and needed a foolproof quick bread recipe.

Since then I've tweaked this basic recipe from No-Knead Artisan Bread in 5 Minutes a Day by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francios to a thing of perfection. If you have my book Hand Made: the Modern Guide to Made-from-Scratch Living you'll recognize this from page 44 as my Master Dough Recipe.

Having a versatile quick super easy no-knead bread recipe is key, I've made this all different ways over the years, including different bake times and baking dishes, and below is my favorite variation.

Trust me, this will quickly become a staple at your house. Fresh bread is a thing of beauty, and this recipe makes excellent garlic bread, sandwiches, torn and dipped into soup… or you might just devour it as is, slathered with some butter, of course!

If you're wondering just how to make those delicious looking cinnamon rolls, pizza crust, hamburger buns, and more, go grab my full Homemade Bread and Baking Course! 

bread dough in bowl with flour and vinegar on table

Ingredients

With this dough sitting in the refrigerator waiting for you, it's so nice not to have to worry about having ingredients on hand when making a fresh loaf of bread, or needing to let your dough rise to room temperature first. This dough actually works best straight from the fridge.

You will, however, need the following ingredients to make the master dough. See each ingredient for tips or substitutions.

  1. Flour – Use unsifted all-purpose flour or bread flour. You can use whole wheat or fresh ground, but reduce flour to 5 1/2 cups and increase only if the dough is too wet and won't hold any type of shape. I've successfully done half whole wheat and half all-purpose at the full 6 and 1/2 cups. To avoid measuring errors, spoon flour into measuring cup and then level.
  2. Water – Make sure water is warm enough to activate yeast but not so hot it kills it. If using a thermometer about 115 degrees Fahrenheit or warm to the inside of your wrist. You'll also want to be sure your water is free of chlorine or other contaminants as this can affect baking.
  3. Salt – I use Redmond's Real Salt or sea salt, but table salt works fine too.
  4. Vinegar – I use my homemade apple cider vinegar but any vinegar will do, it helps create a better texture in no-knead bread recipes.
  5. Yeast – I use active dry yeast but instant will work too. Store your yeast in the fridge to help prolong shelf life.

This bread has that awesome crunchy yet chewy crust with an incredible soft flaky crumb. My kids inhale it. The recipe states this makes two nice sized loaves.

A bread lame scoring a shaped ball of artisan bread dough.

No Knead Bread Equipment

While not required, these are some tools that I find invaluable in my bread baking, both this easy no knead artisan bread dough and my sourdough loaves. Speaking of sourdough, here's my free homemade sourdough starter series!

  • Banneton dough proofing bowl this little bowl is priceless to help form a nice dome on top of round loaves.
  • Bread lame this razor blade makes it easy to slash the top of the dough without tearing it or burning myself on the side of the preheated Dutch oven.
  • Cast iron bread baking Dutch oven I love this one because I don't worry about the knob melting and can use the lid as a skillet, plus no enamel coating to scratch or damage.
  • Wooden bench knife makes it super easy to separte out the dough without it sticking to your hands and helps to form the loaf, plus makes clean up a breeze (no gummy flour on sponges or countertops). You can make it without one but they make things so much easier and are a work horse in the kitchen 10 Time-Saving Uses for a Wooden Bench Knife in the Kitchen
  • Wooden dough scraper is handy for scraping the dough out of the bowl
A woman shaping dough with her hands on a well-floured work surface.

How to Make This Recipe

1.Mix together yeast and water in a large bowl. Allow yeast to turn bubbly (about 3 to 6 minutes).

2. Stir in vinegar, salt, and three cups of flour.

3. Incorporate remaining flour one cup at a time. Only add in that extra 1/2 cup if your dough doesn't seem to be holding together (see video for demonstration).

A large bowl of bread dough.

4. Allow dough to rise for 2 to 3 hours until it has at least doubled in size.

5. Cover bowl, don't seal completely and place in the fridge for at least 8 hours before use.

A woman's hand scooping out half the dough from a large bowl.

6. Use 1/2 of the dough (just pull it out with your hands) and from a round loaf on parchment paper. Let the dough rise for 40 minutes (rise time may vary depending on the temperature and humidity of your kitchen).

Note: You can use a well-floured banneton for the rise time if you'd like your dough to stay a nice tall uniform shape. The banneton isn't necessary and I use it whenever I'd like a pretty swirl on the top of my loaf.

7. Preheat oven with cast iron Dutch oven inside to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.

Artisan bread dough shaped and scored on parchment paper in a cast iron dutch oven.

8. Transfer loaf to preheated Dutch oven (it's hot, use oven mitts) and slash the top with a sharp knife or bread lame.

9. Bake with lid on for 25 minutes. Your bread should just be starting to brown at this point.

Loaf of artisan bread, halfway through baking, in a cast iron dutch oven with lid removed.

10. Remove the lid and bake for another 10 minutes or until perfectly golden brown on top and starting to get very crunchy.

Finished loaf of artisan bread in a cast iron dutch oven lined with parchment paper.

11. Carefully remove from oven, move bread to a cooling rack and allow to cool for 1 hour before slicing (or at least 20 minutes if you're in a rush!).

Artisan bread sliced open to reveal the crumb.

Artisan Bread Tips and Tricks

  • Flour. Use unsifted all-purpose or bread flour. Spoon flour into measuring cup and level. You can use whole wheat or fresh ground, but reduce flour to 5 1/2 cups and increase only if the dough is too wet and won’t hold any type of shape. I’ve successfully done half whole wheat and half all-purpose at the full 6 and 1/2 cups.
  • The dough will be wet. This is intended to be a wet dough, don't keep adding flour expecting a loaf to form. We call this a “free-form” loaf of bread. Because it's no-knead, it needs to be wet in order for the gluten to form properly.
  • Flour your hands and work-surface. Using well-floured hands and work-surface will help tremendously in keeping the dough from being too sticky. You don't want to go crazy with the flour, but a well-coated surface is helpful.
  • No Dutch Oven? No problem! You can use a cookie sheet for your bread (parchment paper is still helpful) and place a metal broiling pan in the oven on the lowest rack and preheat both pans in the oven to 450 degrees. Put your loaf in the oven and then quickly pour a cup of HOT water into the broiler pan and shut your oven. Bake for 45 minutes.
  • Wait to slice into the bread. I know it's difficult, but try to wait at least 20 minutes before slicing into your loaf. If you slice into a hot loaf, you'll end up with a gummy center that will seem underbaked.
  • For a softer crust – If you're not a fan of the crispy crunchy crust, you can immediately brush your loaf with butter when it comes out of the oven. This will soften the crust just a bit so it's not so crunchy.
  • How to store your artisan bread. If you don't eat it all immediately, the best way to store it is in a linen bread bag. Go here for How to Store Homemade Bread (Stays Fresh Longer!)
Woman holding up a loaf of artisan bread.

More Easy Homemade Bread Recipes

Turn the other half of the dough into these Chocolate Caramel Cinnamon Rolls – the sauce makes itself in the pan while they bake!

Chocolate caramel cinnamon rolls baked in a cast iron pan sitting on a table.

Did you make this recipe? If you did, I'd love for you to give it a quick star-rating on the recipe card below! And if you're on social media and love posting pics of your food, tag me, I wanna see!

Easy No Knead Bread Recipe

MelissaKNorris
This easy no-knead artisan bread recipe takes just 5 minutes a day uses only 5 ingredients. It has a soft and fluffy inside and perfectly crunchy crust, everything bread should be without all the work!
4.20 from 236 votes
Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Prep Time 5 mins
Cook Time 45 mins
Total Time 50 mins
Course bread
Cuisine American
Servings 32 servings
Calories 93 kcal

Ingredients
 
 

  • 3 cups water lukewarm (about 120 degrees)
  • 1 1/2 Tablespoons yeast
  • 1 1/2 Tablespoons salt kosher or coarse sea salt is best
  • 1 1/2 Tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  • 6 1/2 cups flour unsifted, all-purpose or bread flour (see notes for whole wheat)

Instructions
 

  • In a large bowl, dissolve yeast and warm water. Allow to sit for 6 to 8 minutes until water is foamy.
  • Add salt and vinegar. Mix in flour a cupful at a time until it's all incorporated. Dough will be slightly wet.
  • Cover your dough with a tea towel and set it on top of the fridge (or a draft free warm place) to rise for about 2 to 3 hours, or until the dough has at least doubled in size.
  • Cover dough (make sure it can still breathe, don't seal completely) and place in fridge for 8 hours.
  • Take 1/2 of the dough (or 1/3 for a smaller loaf) out of the bowl, it’s very wet, so lightly flour your hands, and pull it into the shape of your loaf. Dust the top with flour and slash it with a sharp knife (flour keeps your blade from sticking) and let it rise for about 40 minutes.
  • Preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit with cast iron Dutch oven inside.
  • Remove dutch oven from stove and carefully place one loaf into Dutch oven. Cover with the lid and bake for 25 minutes, remove lid and bake for another 10 minutes until golden on top. (No cast iron Dutch oven, see notes for alternate baking instructions)

Video

Notes

  1. No cast iron Dutch Oven, no problem: Place a metal broiling pan in the oven on the lowest rack and preheat to 450 degrees. Place loaf on a cookie sheet, cast iron skillet, or baking stone and place in oven. Quickly pour a cup of HOT water into the broiler pan and shut your oven. Bake for 45 minutes.
  2. Flour. Use unsifted all-purpose or bread flour. Spoon flour into measuring cup and level. You can use whole wheat or fresh ground, but reduce flour to 5 1/2 cups and increase only if the dough is too wet and won’t hold any type of shape. I’ve successfully done half whole wheat and half all-purpose at the full 6 and 1/2 cups.
  3. The dough will be wet. This is intended to be a wet dough, don't keep adding flour expecting a loaf to form. We call this a “free-form” loaf of bread. Because it's no-knead, it needs to be wet in order for the gluten to form properly.
  4. Flour your hands and work-surface. Using well-floured hands and work-surface will help tremendously in keeping the dough from being too sticky. You don't want to go crazy with the flour, but a well-coated surface is helpful.
  5. Wait to slice into the bread. I know it's difficult, but try to wait at least 20 minutes before slicing into your loaf. If you slice into a hot loaf, you'll end up with a gummy center that will seem underbaked.
  6. For a softer crust – If you're not a fan of the crispy crunchy crust, you can immediately brush your loaf with butter when it comes out of the oven. This will soften the crust just a bit so it's not so crunchy.

Nutrition

Calories: 93kcalCarbohydrates: 19gProtein: 3gFat: 1gSaturated Fat: 1gSodium: 329mgPotassium: 29mgFiber: 1gSugar: 1gCalcium: 4mgIron: 1mg
Keyword Artisan bread, Bread recipe, no-knead bread
Tried this recipe?Let us know how it was!

Cherry Jam Recipe Without Pectin and Low Sugar

by 47 Comments

A cherry jam recipe is a must in every kitchen and my low sugar no pectin cherry jam recipe is the way jam should be. High on flavor instead of bucket fulls of sugar. I've also provided a quick-setting method that uses pectin, or an even easier freezer jam recipe so you don't have to heat up your house by canning! No matter the method, these cherry jam recipes come together easily so you can enjoy the bright taste of cherries all year long.

An opened jar of cherry jam with a spoonful.

Are your cherry trees ripe for the picking? Be sure you know what to do with all those cherries before they're ready to pick and have a plan to get them all preserved and lining your pantry shelves. Some of my favorites are this cherry jam, cherry pie filling, chocolate cherry sauce, and of course, these adorable mini hand pies!

The one drawback with preserving fruit in the middle of summer that it's often very hot and no one wants to heat up the house. But many of us also only have so much freezer space and need to use up the fruit we harvest before it goes bad.

What Type of Cherries are Best for Jam?

I prefer a sweet cherry jam recipe and my favorite sweet cherry is Bing. They provide that deep red color naturally. I've also used Rainier cherries for this recipe. Rainier cherries are a cross between a Van and a Bing cherry.

However, any sweet cherry will work, so use what you have available to you, or at a good price!

If you have tart cherries, simply increase the amount of sugar in the recipe and taste the jam before cooking, making adjustments as needed. (See the “Update” note below on cooking times if you're using tart cherries!)

Can You Use Frozen Cherries for Jam?

Yes, cherries freeze quite well and can be used to make both jam, jelly, and cherry pie filling. Make sure you thaw frozen cherries fully before proceeding with the recipe. I will often freeze cherries and berries to make jam later in the fall when I have more time (and a cooler kitchen).

Harvest Note: Whenever you pick cherries, be sure to leave the stem on, until just ready to use. Once you remove the stem, you allow oxygen into the cherry and it will turn brown and break down faster.

A colander filled with cherries.

Supplies Needed

  • Multiple Cherry Pitter  – pitting cherries isn't always the most fun job, but having a pitter that can do multiple cherries at once sure speeds up the process. If you have kids, this is a great job to have them do!
  • Classic Zester- this little beauty makes getting that pectin luscious lemon zest into your cherry jam without the bitter pith so easy if using the no store-bought pectin version.
  • Stainless Steel Canner– (Safe for glass top stoves) this water bath canner won't rust like the granite wear and will be your trusty sidekick in the kitchen for years to come.
  • OR Steam Canner (my new favorite way to water bath can recipes)
  • Candy Thermometer – most accurate way to ensure jam has reached the gelling point for the non-pectin version.
  • The Pampered Chef Cutting Edge Food Chopper – because chopping up fruit is not where I want to spend my time and I'm all about making quick work when possible. You can also use a blender or a food processor for this part!</li>

Ingredients Needed

  • Cherries – again this recipe works best with sweet cherries, but tart cherries or pie cherries can also work, you'll just need more sugar so it wouldn't be considered a “low-sugar” recipe.
  • Sugar – I like to use an organic sugar like evaporated cane juice, but regular granulated sugar would work as well. Pomona's pectin gives options for using honey or maple syrup, so if you're wanting to use a natural sweetener I would recommend reading the instructions that come with the pectin.
  • Lemon juice (or lime juice) – you can use fresh lemon juice or lime juice with tart or pie cherries, sweet cherries should use bottled juice from concentrate for acidity reasons.
  • Pomona's pectin (for pectin recipe only)– This ingredient is essential in order to reduce the amount of sugar and time needed to make this jam. (See below for more info on pectin.)
  • Calcium (for pectin recipe only) – The Pomona's pectin relies on calcium for the jam to set, this is why you're able to use less sugar, which I love! The calcium isn't an extra ingredient you need to purchase, it actually comes with your box of Pomona's pectin.
Cherry jam ingredients being cooked in a large yellow dutch oven.

What Does Pectin Do for Jam?

Pectin is naturally found in fruits, but not all fruit has the same level of pectin. Apples, grapes, currants, and citrus are naturally high in pectin and can be paired with lower pectin level fruits like cherries, strawberries, blackberries, and raspberries.

Pectin works with sugar (the natural sugars in fruit as well as added sugar) and acid to create a gel when it reaches 220 degrees Fahrenheit.

Commercial pectin is almost always made from GMO-derived ingredients (with the exception of Pomona's pectin) and is an added cost, so many jam makers want to learn how to make homemade jam without store-bought pectin.

Omitting store-bought pectin does require you to cook the jam longer to reach the jelling point, but you can use less sugar than most commercial recipes and pair together acidic fruits to create delicious jams and jellies, like the low sugar cherry jam recipe below (I've also included an alternative sweet cherry jam recipe using the ONLY non-GMO commercial pectin I will use).

A woman's hand holding up a spoon covered in jam as a "Sheet test" to see if the jam has set.

How To Tell When Jam is Set

Jam is done when it's reached the gelling point, nice and thick for spreading on toast, homemade buttermilk biscuits, sandwiches, or anything else your taste buds desire. I highly recommend using this jam in my homemade pop tarts recipe!

When the jam is hot, oftentimes it's difficult to tell if the jam has reached the gelling point because it thickens as it cools (it will remain runny while hot). The easiest way to tell if a jam is set is when it reaches 220 degrees Fahrenheit. You can know this by using a candy thermometer. 

Old-Fashioned Gel Tests

Don't despair if you don't have a candy thermometer, there are several old-fashioned tests to see if your jam is set that work just fine.

Sheet Test

Because jam will set more as it cools, it can be difficult to tell while it's still cooking if it has reached the jelling point. An easy fix is to use a sheet test.

Place a metal spoon in the freezer when you begin making your jam. To perform the sheet test, dip the cold spoon into the jam and then pull it out. Watch the jam drip off the back of the spoon, it should drip off in a sheet, not run or be individual droplets.

This is called sheeting and if the jam comes off in one sheet it's reached the gelling point.

Plate or Saucer Test

The other test is called the plate or saucer test. Instead of a spoon place a small plate or saucer in the freezer. To check the set of the jam, place a tablespoon of jam on the cold plate. Let it sit for a minute (so it cools and you don't burn yourself) and then run your finger through the middle. It should separate and not run back together.

If you perform either of these tests and the jam isn't set yet, put your spoon and/or saucer back in the freezer, cook for 5 to 10 minutes, and then test again.

Update: I've increased the processing time to reach a gel as a few people have had to cook for a longer time to get a gel. I've always reached a gel with a shorter time but I am using sweet cherries, not tart or pie cherries. I recommend testing for the gel point at the 15-minute mark and only continuing to cook if it's not gelled yet.

Cherry Jam Recipe (No Pectin & Low Sugar)

Four cherries in a cherry pitter.

1. Wash, remove stems, and pit cherries. Get the cherry pitter!

2. Roughly chop up cherries using a chopper, blender, or food processor. Be sure to measure cherries once they're processed, not whole!

Cherry jam ingredients being cooked in a large yellow dutch oven.

3. Place chopped cherries in a large stockpot. Add 1/2 cup water to cherries. Bring to a boil and allow to simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. You'll see the cherries begin to break down and thicken.

4. Stir in sugar and lemon juice, mixing well. Bring to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Sugar will scorch quickly if not kept moving.

5. Boil, uncovered until thickened, about 25 minutes, and has reached the gel point via one of the above tests.

Cherry jam being funneled into a canning jar.

6. Remove jam mixture from the heat and pour into hot canning jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace.

Cherry jam being poured into a canning jar.

7. Using a knife or canning tool, slide it down into the jar to remove any air bubbles, then adjust headspace again, if needed.

8. Wipe rims of jars with a damp towel, center the lids on each jar then add bands and tighten to fingertip tight.

Three jars of cherry jam sitting in a steam canner.

9. Submerge in a hot water bath and process for 15 minutes. (Or, if using a steam canner, see video above at the 12:30 minute mark for instructions.)

Jar lifters lifting out a finished batch of cherry jam from a steam canner on a stovetop.

10. Take off of heat and let sit for 5 minutes before moving to a folded towel when using a traditional hot water bath, if using the steam canner follow instructions in the video.

11. Let jars sit for at least 12 hours before checking seals or removing bands. Then, remove bands, wipe down jars, and store them in a cool dark place for up to a year. Be sure to date and label your jars so you know what's in them!

12. If any jars didn't set, transfer to the refrigerator and use them right away.

Be sure to get more steam canning tips and tutorials in my full canning course, Home Canning with Confidence, or my Fruit to Jar course.

Sweet Cherry Freezer Jam

To make cherry freezer jam, simply follow all the instructions above through step 3, and instead of canning, allow jars to cool completely and then freeze.

Alternate Pomona's Pectin Cherry Jam Version

This is the method I'm using in the video above! We had a massive heatwave go through our area about the time all our cherries were ripe, and I definitely wasn't wanting to heat up the house by using the stove all day to cook jam then can it.

When using a recipe that includes pectin you can cut your jam-making time by a fraction and still end up with a great low-sugar jam recipe that you can either can or put in the freezer for freezer jam.

Furthermore, Pomona's Pectin is the only store-bought pectin I will use on our homestead because it doesn't rely on sugar for the set (it uses calcium instead) and is the only non-GMO pectin I've found without questionable ingredients.

Plus, 1 box makes multiple batches of jam and you can even do completely no sugar batches, which you can't do the old-fashioned way because you need sugar to reach the gelling point. And no, I'm not sponsored by Pomona's, but if they're reading this, I'd totally take a box of pectin in exchange!

This is the bulk option of Pomona's Pectin I purchased last year and the best price I've found for 6 boxes.

Three jars of cherry jam sitting on a counter with a Pioneering Today tea towel.

Cherry Jam Recipe (With Pectin)

Ingredients:

  • 4 cups smashed pitted cherries (approximately 8 cups whole cherries will equal the 4 cups smashed/pitted)
  • 1/4 cup lime juice from concentrate
  • 1 cup of sugar
  • 4 teaspoons powdered pectin (in your Pomona's box)
  • 3 teaspoons calcium water (comes with your box of Pomona's pectin)

Directions:

  1. Prepare jars and canner with hot water.
  2. Place prepared cherries, lime juice, and calcium water in a large stock pot on the stove, stir well, and over medium high heat bring to a boil.
  3. While berry mixture is heating, mix together your sugar and powdered pectin in a bowl until well combined.
  4. When berry mixture has reached a rolling boil, stir in the pectin/sugar and mix until combined. Stir continuously for 1 to 2 minutes, making sure the contents have reached a full boil.
  5. Remove from heat and fill your prepared jars to a 1/4 inch headspace. Make sure and wipe the rim of jars clean with a damp towel, place lids and bands on and screw down to finger tip tight. Place your jars on the canning rack in your water bath canner, making sure the water level covers the top of the jars by 1 to 2 inches and bring to a full boil. Process for 10 minutes with the lid on.
  6. Take the lid off and let sit for 5 minutes, then remove jars to a towel and let jars cool for 24 hours. Remove bands, check seals, wipe down jars, mark or label your jars with the date, and place jars in pantry until ready to use!

Did you make this recipe? If so, I'd love for you to leave me a star rating on the recipe card below, then snap a photo and tag me on social media @melissaknorris so I can see! Happy canning!

Jars of apple pie jam sitting on a counter.

Other Jam Recipes & Canning Posts You May Find Helpful:

An opened jar of cherry jam with a spoonful.

Cherry Jam Recipe Without Pectin and Low Sugar

MelissaKNorris
Here's my favorite old-fashioned cherry jam recipe that's high on taste but low on sugar and doesn't use store-bought pectin! Can it or toss it in the freezer for freezer jam (or see our pectin option in the notes below if you're in a hurry!). No matter the method, these cherry jam recipes come together easily so you can enjoy the bright taste of cherries all year long.
4.10 from 41 votes
Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Prep Time 10 mins
Cook Time 40 mins
Total Time 50 mins
Course Condiment
Cuisine American
Servings 32 servings
Calories 75 kcal

Ingredients
  

  • 5 cups sweet cherries pitted and chopped
  • 2.5 cups sugar can use between 2.5-3 cups depending on how sweet your cherries are and your preference
  • 5 tablespoons lime juice from concentrate or lemon juice

Instructions
 

  • Wash, remove stems, and pit cherries. A cherry pitter is highly advised
  • Roughly chop up cherries. Place chopped cherries in a large stock pot. Add 1/2 cup water to cherries. Bring to a boil and allow to simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. You'll see the cherries begin to break down and thicken.
  • Stir in sugar and lemon juice, mixing well. Bring to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Sugar will scorch quickly if not kept moving. Boil, uncovered, till thick, about 25 minutes. Remove from heat and pour into hot sterilized jars.
  • Note: It's set when it sticks to the back of a metal spoon. This is called sheeting. Look at the jam dripping off the edge of the spoon. It should look like a “sheet” of jam, not a bunch of individual drops. Cherry jam is not meant to be extremely thick. It's a thinner jam, excellent on pancakes, waffles, toast, etc.
  • Wipe rims with a damp towel, put on lids and bands. Submerge in hot water bath and process for 15 minutes *increase processing time for high altitude (see note section).
    Take off of heat and let sit for 5 minutes before moving to a folded towel. Let sit for at least 12 hours before checking seals on jars. Then store in a cool dark place for up to a year. If any jars didn't set, store in fridge.
  • Make 2 pints or 4 eight ounce jelly jars.

Video

Notes

*For altitudes 1,001 feet above sea level, increase processing time by 5 minutes for every 3,000 feet increment. For 1,001 to 3,000 feet add 5 minutes. 3,001 to 6,000 feet add 10 minutes, 6,001 to 8,000 add 15 minutes extra. 8,001 to 10,000 add 20 minutes extra.

Recipe for Cherry Jam with Pectin:

    • Ingredients:

      • 4 cups smashed pitted cherries (about 8 cups whole cherries)
      • 1/4 cup concentrated lime juice (or lemon juice)
      • 1 cup sugar
      • 3 teaspoons powdered Pamona's pectin
      • 4 teaspoons calcium water (comes with your box of Pomona's pectin)

      Directions:

      1. Pit cherries, then chop and mash or pulse in a blender (do not puree or completely liquefy). 
      2. Place in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add lime juice and calcium water. Stir well. Bring to a full boil.
      3. If using a STEAM CANNER begin to heat water to 180 degrees F (because this is a hot pack recipe).
      4. If using a WATER BATH CANNER begin heating BEFORE prepping your cherries as it takes longer to get to temperature than the steam canner.
      5. While the cherry mixture is boiling, mix together pectin and sugar. 
      6. Add combined pectin/sugar and stir constantly for 1 to 2 minutes.
      7. Remove from heat and fill jars to 1/4″ headspace. Remove bubbles and adjust headspace if needed to maintain 1/4″.
      8. Wipe rims clean, add lids and bands, tightening to fingertip tight, and process for 10 minutes. *
      9. For STEAM CANNER: turn off heat BUT don't remove the lid for additional 5 minutes, the steam will keep the temperature high and is required for total processing time with the steam canner.
      10. After 5 minutes move jars to a towel and allow to cool and set overnight or for at least 12 hours.
      11. Check seals. If the center of the lid gives, then store in the fridge and eat soon. If jars are sealed, wipe them down with a damp cloth, mark them with the date and contents, and store them in the pantry out of the light for up to a year. 
      12. For the WATER BATH CANNER: turn off the heat and remove the lid, allow jars to sit for 5 minutes before removing them to a towel.
      13. Allow to cool and set overnight or for at least 12 hours. Check seals. If the center of the lid gives, then store in the fridge and eat soon. If jars are sealed, wipe them down with a damp cloth, mark them with the date and contents, and store them in the pantry out of the light for up to a year. 
      14. Yields 4-5 cups of jam

Nutrition

Serving: 2TbsCalories: 75kcalCarbohydrates: 19gProtein: 1gFat: 1gSaturated Fat: 1gPolyunsaturated Fat: 1gMonounsaturated Fat: 1gSodium: 1mgPotassium: 51mgFiber: 1gSugar: 18gVitamin A: 15IUVitamin C: 2mgCalcium: 3mgIron: 1mg
Keyword Cherry Jam, Cherry Jam Recipe, Easy Cherry Jam, How to Can Cherry Jam, Low-Sugar Cherry Jam, No Pectin Cherry Jam
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How to Plant and Grow Potatoes (In Containers or the Ground)

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Knowing how to plant potatoes correctly, including their depth, spacing, soil needs, sunlight, water, and temperature preferences, will get your harvest off to the best start possible and provide your family with food for months to come. Read on to learn how to plant potatoes the right way (including how to grow them in containers).

Image of a sprouting potato in the ground.

One of my favorite things about the pioneer lifestyle is growing our own food. But with recent biotech and GMOs sneaking into our food, it's not just about being frugal or the added health benefits (you did know homegrown vegetables and fruits have more nutrients, right?), it's about protecting our families.

Knowing how to grow enough food at home to feed my family for a year, having some basic gardening secrets tucked in your back pocket, knowing how to protect crops from common garden pests, and even how to grow a large scale garden without acreage will help get you headed down the right path to self-sufficiency.

Growing potatoes is just one small step in starting a vegetable garden.

Favorite Potato Varieties

If you haven't grown potatoes, now might be the perfect time to start. Many of you know I'm a firm believer in growing heirloom plants, and the potato is no exception. We have grown many varieties of potatoes over our 20 years of gardening, and we've settled on a few of our favorites…

  • Russet
  • Russet Norkotah PH
  • German Butterball

The above are my favorites for long-term storage, we've previously grown a purple potato called Purple Majesty. It has 10 times more antioxidants than a regular potato (and my kids love the color… lavender mashed potatoes anyone?).

Red and yellow potatoes arranged on a burlap sack.

There are three basic kinds of potatoes:

Early, Mid-Season & Late Potatoes

Before planting just any old potato, you need to know how many potatoes you're growing (get my free chart on how much to plant per person for a year's worth of food here), how quickly your family will eat them, and if you're hoping to still be eating that potato harvest the following spring (meaning you'll need to choose good storage varieties). Read on for more info about the kinds of potatoes.

Early-Season Potatoes

Also called “new potatoes” or basically, potatoes that haven't fully matured or finished growing.

Early season potatoes are ready for harvest in about 75-90 days. This is a great variety to grow if you're looking to get multiple plantings in one area of your garden.

If you live in a climate with very warm summers (staying above 90 degrees for days and weeks at a time), these early season potatoes will be your best bet.

Likewise, if you want to plant a late-summer garden for an early fall harvest, then early season potatoes are great for planting mid to late August.

If your potatoes have been prone to disease, the early potatoes may also be a better choice as they're the least likely to get blight because they're generally harvested well before disease sets in.

Early potatoes are not great storage potatoes, so these will be your “fresh eating” crop from the garden.

Early Season Potato Varieties

  • Alta
  • Cheiftan
  • Norland
  • Red Pontiac
  • Yukon Gold

Mid-Season Potatoes

Similar to early-season potatoes, mid-season potatoes will be ready fairly quick in about 95-110 days.

Mid-season potatoes aren't always great storage potatoes, so be sure to read up on the variety you're buying to know if they're better for fresh eating or long-term storage.

Mid-Season Potato Varieties

  • Adirondack Blue and Red
  • Purple Majesty
  • Gold Rush
  • Red Gold

Late-Season Potatoes

Because I like to grow food for my family that will last us a whole year, the late-season potatoes tend to be my go-to potatoes.

Late-season potatoes are sometimes referred to as “Main Crop Potatoes” and are generally ready to harvest in about 120-135 days.

Late-Season Potato Varieties

  • German Butterball
  • Fingerling
  • Russet
  • Russian Blue
Image of a BCS two-wheel tractor digging a trench.

Supplies Needed for Growing Potatoes

You don't need much to grow potatoes successfully, but there is some general knowledge that will come in handy throughout the growing season. So stick with me…

  • Seed Potatoes – see my favorite varieties mentioned above
  • Soil – Potatoes aren't picky, but crop rotation is important, don't plant potatoes where you had tomatoes the year prior, and it's best if your soil is rich, well-draining, and acidic (4.8 to 5.5 pH).
  • Space – whether you're planting in the garden or in containers, you need to have enough space for the tubers to develop.
  • Sunlight – potatoes grow best in full sunlight. Plant them in a place that gets all day sun and you should be golden.
  • Water – consistent watering is key for potatoes. Try not to go too long between waterings, and don't over-saturate them when you're watering.
seed potatoes on tray

Seed Potatoes

When growing potatoes you can only grow them from seed potatoes. The potatoes you've purchased in the grocery store are not suitable for seed potatoes because they can carry disease (remember the potato famine in Ireland during the 1800s, it was caused by a late blight that infected the soil and crops for multiple years). They also may have been sprayed with chemicals to keep them from sprouting on the shelf. Source

Seed potatoes are chosen for their resistance to disease and are certified disease-free, starting with disease-free potatoes is key.

I know some people do plant potatoes they've purchased from the store once they've sprouted (with great success!), but I'd rather not take the gamble of introducing any disease to my soil and don't think it's worth the risk. Each person must decide this for themselves.

If you grow and harvest your potatoes correctly, you can grow your own seed potatoes for the following year, essentially having an endless supply of potatoes. Stick with me, we'll talk about that soon.

Where to Buy Seed Potatoes

As mentioned above, we grow enough potatoes each year to have extra left over for our own seed potatoes. But if you've gotta start somewhere, so if you're looking to grow potatoes and are in need of seed potatoes, try some of the following places:

NOTE: Many places completely sell out of seed potatoes. It's a good idea not to wait until mid to late spring to try and buy them. When possible, order seed potatoes ahead of time (generally in the winter) to be sure you get on the list when they're in stock.

If you can't find seed potatoes, ask a friend if they'd be willing to share, you can cut your seed potatoes into pieces (be sure there are at least two “eyes” per piece) and it weighs at least 1 to 2 ounces per piece, allow them a couple of days to dry out and “scab up” to prevent rotting once planted, then proceed with the planting instructions below.

chitting seed potatoes on a tray before planting

What is “Chitting” Potatoes?

Chitting refers to forcing potatoes to sprout. If you've stored your potatoes correctly, they may not be sprouting come spring when it's time to plant.

To chit potatoes, bring them into a dark room that's around 70 degrees F for about two weeks. This brings them out of dormancy and allows them to sprout.

Once they've begun to sprout, you can move them to a cooler location with decent light for a few weeks until you're ready to plant.

Image of three potatoes in a trench spaced apart about 12 inches.

How to Plant Potatoes

There are many ways to grow potatoes, so it's important to consider both your space and how many potatoes you want to grow for both fresh eating and storing.

Growing Methods

If you're short on garden space, you can grow potatoes in containers or fabric bags. They can be grown in raised beds, long rows that you'll hill up, or even in mounds. Some people even grow them in trash cans! The moral is to grow with what you have at the moment.

Choose which growing method works best for you:

If you don't have the garden space for potatoes, they make an excellent container crop. You basically follow the same method as I'll lay out below, however, instead of digging a trench, you simply add a little dirt at the bottom of your container, then fill with more dirt instead of mounding each time. I discuss more about this method in Using Vegetable Grow Bags in the Garden. I've even seen pictures of people using large plastic laundry baskets… get creative!

Image of feet walking through the garden adding compost over the soil.

Soil

When growing potatoes plant them in well-draining acidic soil that's been fertilized. Ideal pH levels for potatoes is 4.8 to 5.5 They will grow in slightly more acidic soil and usually do okay into the 6 pH range but if they're in more alklaine soil (above 7.5 pH) they can't uptake many of the macronutrients in the soil and are more prone to developing scab.

Photo of a jar of elemental sulfur and some sprinkled into the ground.

It's not advised to try and change your pH level by more than 1 point in a twelve-month period. Our soil pH range is naturally around 6 (slightly acidic) so at planting time I add 0.2 pounds of elemental sulfur (make sure it says elemental sulfur to avoid aluminum) per 10-foot row. This will lower the pH by 1 point.

Potatoes are heavy feeders. You don't want them to rot in the ground or develop a fungus. Never plant where you had tomatoes or eggplant (they are susceptible to the same diseases) the previous year and always rotate your potatoes each year.

The ideal soil for growing potatoes is:

  • Well draining
  • Loose and fluffy
  • Acidic

Well Draining

The biggest nemesis of growing potatoes is having them rot in the ground. This can be avoided by consistent watering and well-draining soil.

Potatoes don't like to be soggy, or sit in extremely wet soil. The soil should hold water well, but not pool or puddle up. It sounds funny to want well-draining soil that holds water, but that's exactly the “just right” Goldilocks effect we're looking for.

Well-draining soil is also what allows me to store my potatoes in the ground all winter and harvest them as we need them in the kitchen!

Close up shot of the BCS tractor digging a ditch.

Loose and Fluffy

As mentioned above, make sure your soil is light and fluffy and not too compact (you don't want it to form a solid ball when squeezed together in your hand).

If your soil isn't well-draining, then you'll need to add in some organic matter (but nothing with too much nitrogen). Adding some compost and or worm castings will give the potatoes the nutrition they need to grow nice big greens, but also develop large tubers as well.

Too much nitrogen in the soil and you'll get nice big greens, but tiny, underdeveloped tubers (no good!).

Temperature & Sunlight

Potatoes prefer cooler weather and full sunlight and can be put in the ground as early as 2 weeks before your last frost date.

They'll tolerate some heat, but if temps stay at or above the 90s for prolonged periods of time, they may die. Our summers are extremely mild in the Pacific Northwest, so I don't have to deal with this.

We generally plant our potatoes the first to mid part of May.

Water

When watering potatoes, consistency is best. Try not to go too long between waterings, and don't over-saturate them when you're watering.

A general rule of thumb is to give them about 1 inch of water per week.

Preparing Your Seed Potatoes

Image of a potato with sprouts being placed into the soil.

Once your seed potatoes are sprouting, you have two options. If the potato is large and has more than four eyes, you can cut your seed potato (giving you two seed potatoes). However, your seed potato needs to be at least 1 to 2 ounces in order to have enough food to feed the emerging sprouts so I don't cut my potatoes unless they're at least 4 ounces in size.

I prefer to plant whole seed potatoes, these produce more pounds per plant for me and less chance of the potato rotting in the ground.

How to Cut Seed Potatoes Before Planting

If you do wish to cut your seed potatoes, there are a few simple rules to follow:

  • don't cut smaller than 1 ounce
  • make sure each piece has 1 to 2 eyes
  • allow cut potato to set out over 1 to 2 days to scab over (dry out)
  • if cut part isn't scabbed fully, dip in elemental sulfur at planting time

Depth & Spacing

Close up shot of the BCS tractor digging a ditch.
Image of a potato with sprouts being placed into the soil.
Image of two potatoes 12 inches apart being measured with a tape measure.

Dig a trench about 6 to 10 inches deep. Place your cut potato with the eyes facing upwards (or plant whole potatoes as shown below if you have plenty to spare). Space 12 inches apart.

Photo of a jar of elemental sulfur and some sprinkled into the ground.
Image of a potato in the soil with a tape measure showing it's 6 inches deep.
Image of a tape measure in the ground with dirt piled up about six inches.

I also like to add in some elemental sulfur to help acidify and reduce scab. Cover the potatoes with about 2 inches of soil.

What Are The Best Companion Plants For Potatoes

Image of a potato plant growing above the soil.

Companion planting is used to help both repel bad pests, attract “good” pests, and placing plants together that benefit one another.

Don't plant potatoes with other members of the nightshade family (tomatoes and peppers) because they are all susceptible to blight. Avoid planting potatoes with carrots and squash.

Potatoes do well when planted near beans, brassicas, corn, garlic, peas and onions.

Read How to Get Rid of Bugs on Plants Naturally Tips that Actually Work for more tips.

What to Plant with Potatoes to Keep Bugs Away

Basil – repels potato beetles

Nasturtium – repels potato beetles and attracts beneficial insects, also helps to repel cabbage moths so is excellent to plant with potatoes if you've paired them with brassicas.

Marigold- deters root nematodes (this happens once the plant is chopped up and worked back into the soil for the following year), repels potato bus and white fly. Attracts beneficial insects such as hover flies, lacewings, ladybird beetles, mantids, robber flies, some spiders and predatory mites.

Mounding or Hilling Potatoes

After potatoes have sprouted, you'll need to mound soil around them. We have lots of slugs here, so I don't use mulch, just good old dirt.

You may wonder if mounding is really that important. I'm here to tell you, it is.

Potatoes are produced from the tubers, and if left exposed to light, they'll turn green and possibly poisonous. (Yes, this is true.) When you see green on potatoes, it's chlorophyll (harmless) BUT it can be a sign it has a higher level of solanine (a glycoalkaloid and toxic chemical) so you want to avoid eating large amounts green potatoes.

Mounding helps protect the tubers (potatoes) from getting too much sun and keeps them safe for consumption.

Mounding also helps inhibit blight. Mound the soil up once the foliage has reached about 8 inches high with a hoe. It's better to not mound the soil too steep, so it won't wash away in the rain. Mound up until only 2 inches of leaves are left showing.

Additional mounding of dirt should be done once you have new growth of about 4-6 inches. This will be repeated 3 to 4 times throughout the growing season.

Once potatoes are blossoming, stop mounding. You can damage the new tender shoots beneath the surface of the soil.

Two images, one of a potato plant with growth about 8 inches high, the other image of the potato having dirt mounded up and only a couple of inches showing.

Have you had success growing potatoes? What kind of potato are you growing this year?

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