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Late winter and early spring are the time to plant fruit trees and bushes. While I love my veggie garden, there is a beauty in only having to plant something once and being able to harvest if for years to come. Can I get a holler? No, sheesh, this is exciting stuff, okay, at least a high five.
Having a fruit source on your homestead is a great step towards self-sufficiency and lowering your grocery bill. Plus, there is nothing and I mean nothing, like fresh ripe fruit straight off the vine… or tree or bush. This makes jam, jelly, and syrup making almost free as well.
Planting in the late winter or early spring is generally the best time to get your new fruit trees in the ground. As long as the ground isn’t too frozen to dig a hole, you should be good to go.
Bare root stock should be planted in winter, while raspberries and blueberries can be planted into spring.
A good rule of thumb is to check the local nursery’s in your area. If they have bare root fruit trees and other fruit plants out, then it’s time to begin planting. Your goal is to have the fruit tree/plant in the ground so the roots can get over the shock of transplanting and begin establishing their root system before the stress of summer and the work of growing leaves and fruit begin.
You have a few options for finding good fruit stock. Your best bet is to go to a local nursery rather than ordering online. You’ll be able to inspect the stock, it’s most likely grown in your region (acclimated to your weather), and the varieties best suited to where you live.
Bare root fruit trees are usually the cheapest route to go and most nurseries will have them on sale in winter, as this is the time they must be planted. Because you’ll be purchasing and planting the trees before they’ve leafed and blossomed out, it may be harder to tell if the tree is healthy.
If you have a friend with a good raspberry patch, ask if you can get a few canes (the viney branch part of the bush) to start your own patch. It will take a few years before your own canes need thinning, but this was how we got all of our raspberries. An overgrown patch was on my aunt’s property and we transplanted an entire row in the early spring to our yard. Raspberries will also send out runners and you can dig those canes up as well.
If you plan on moving an established fruit tree or fruit plant or planting a bare root or potted tree, be sure you dig a hole twice as wide and twice as deep. Create a cone shape of dirt in the bottom of the hole and spread the roots out and down this dirt cone (same technique in How to Plant Strawberries)
Back fill the hole with loose dirt and a layer of compost. If any of the roots are broken, remove them before planting. Keep the level of dirt at the same level it was in at the nursery. You can usually see the line on the trunk of the tree or bush. Create a mote around the base of the tree to allow the water to filter down onto the roots instead of running off into the surrounding soil or land.
Use a small amount of water when you plant the tree . The soil will settle and you’ll be able to see where you need to add more dirt. Don’t over water in the winter months. In the late spring, when the tree leaves out and soil becomes dry, water deeply once a week.
Throughout the first summer, you’ll want to water the plant once a week if you don’t have any rain fall. I neglected to this with one of our new apple trees and lost it. So even in the rainy Pacific Northwest, you’ll still want to follow the rule of watering deeply once a week with a newly planted tree.
Note: It takes an average of seven years before you’ll be able to harvest a sizeable crop from your fruit trees. Most bare root stock is a few years old, but you can ask the nursery for more specifics or older stock, however, the bigger or older the stock, the more expensive it will be. Raspberries will produce the following year and blueberries usually take a couple of years.
An important thing to remember when planting your fruit trees is to be sure you either pick a self-pollinating fruit tree or you purchase two varieties that will cross-pollinate. A crab apple with cross-pollinate almost all apple tree varieties as it blooms for a longer period of time than a regular apple, allowing it to pollinate early, mid, and late season apples. Although a crab apple is so sour you’ll never make the mistake of biting into one twice, it is high in natural sources of pectin and will help you get a beautiful set on your jams and jellies.
Some varieties of apples become ripe later in the season. If you live in a zone with early frosts or shorter growing seasons, you might want to pick an earlier ripening variety.
You can also purchase “fruit cocktail” trees, where several varieties have been grafted onto one stock. We haven’t had much luck with these as the grafted branches tend to die off after a year or two and the main stock of the tree takes over.
Even if a fruit variety is self-pollinating, you’ll get a larger harvest if a cross-pollinator is nearby.
My favorite apple is the heirloom Gravenstein, but because it’s sterile (doesn’t pollinate anything else) so we have a crab apple, and also a Gala and Honeycrisp.
Bonus: Use the same tips for planting Filberts or hazelnut trees.
Even if you don’t have a large yard or any land you can still plant fruit trees. Look for dwarf varieties. Here’s a detailed post on Dwarf Fruit Trees from Untrained Housewives.com
Want to try your hand at permaculture and the Back to Eden gardening? Here’s how one blogger started her mini-orchard in the Back to Eden style and how she got her loads, and I mean loads, of mulch for free.
What kind of fruit do you grow? Do you have a favorite variety or tips to share?
Melissa K. Norris inspires people's faith and pioneer roots with her books, podcast, and blog. Melissa lives with her husband and two children in their own little house in the big woods in the foothills of the North Cascade Mountains. When she's not wrangling chickens and cattle, you can find her stuffing Mason jars with homegrown food and playing with flour and sugar in the kitchen.