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How to Plant Raspberries

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Learn how to plant raspberries the best way. Whether you have acreage on a homestead or limited space in apartments, you can grow a healthy red raspberry or blackberry plant from bare root to an abundantly producing bush with this easy tutorial. 

A woman picking raspberries into a white bowl.

Then come back and learn how to prune raspberries to ensure a maximum harvest in years to come, plus how to harvest the young leaves for raspberry leaf tea.

Why I Love Growing Raspberries

A raspberry patch lends not only a tasty treat, but also a beautiful addition of red and yellow (or even purple raspberries) to a homesteader’s garden.

I love planting perennials because it allows me to plant just one time, and these plants present an offering of fruit year after year.

For my family of four, I have planted a row of 11 raspberry canes that bring in a plentiful harvest not only to eat fresh in season but enough to also preserve. 

Some of my favorite preservation methods for raspberries are my low-sugar jam recipe, and dehydrating raspberries.

This need will vary depending on a number of contributing factors, and I talk more in-depth about how many berry bushes and fruit trees to plant when considering these variables.

Ever-Bearing vs. Summer Bearing Raspberries

The most notable difference in raspberry varieties is ever-bearing and summer-bearing raspberries. 

Ever-bearing raspberries will produce berries on the canes that grew within that year and will continue to produce until the first frost in the fall. 

Summer-bearing raspberries produce berries on canes that grew the summer before. Berries ripen in early to mid-summer for the duration of about a month.  

If the goal is to preserve berries in jams, jellies, and syrups, summer bearing is the best variety for this purpose because you'll get the majority of your fruit at once.

The variety of the raspberry plant will also determine how to prune raspberries. Always plant like varieties together to make pruning raspberries more efficient.

Raspberry Canes

When is the Best Time to Plant Raspberries

Raspberry bushes are best planted in the late winter or early spring. As soon as the ground thaws and is workable, planting can begin. 

If transplanting a raspberry bush from pots, make sure all danger of frost has passed. 

Raspberry bushes cannot withstand a frost, and planting them too early will kill off their growth. If they survive, the damage will prevent them from producing fruit that season.

A woman holding a white bowl full of raspberries.

How Long Does it Take for Raspberries to Bear Fruit

Depending on the raspberry variety, the growing season for all raspberries is from early summer to early fall.

Summer-bearing raspberries will produce fruit by the second summer after planting. 

Ever-bearing raspberries will have some berries come on within the first summer, but a full harvest can be expected in the fall.

A woman's hand picking raspberries.

Supplies Needed

  • Space – The amount of space you will need will be determined by how many raspberry plants are planted. Raspberries are best planted in a row spaced at least 18 inches apart with 4 feet between each row. 
  • Sunshine – While raspberries will grow in partial shade, they will thrive in full sun. The more sun exposure, the more berries the plants will produce.
  • Year Old Canes – These can be purchased online, at a local nursery, or from a neighbor who is thinning out a patch. Potted raspberry plants can also be used. Just make sure the danger of frost has passed before planting potted plants.
  • Rototiller – When planting in-ground, a rototiller to till up the top layer of soil is helpful. However, cultivating by hand works too.
  • Rake – This helps gather the freshly tilled organic material so that it will not re-root and compete with the raspberry plants. Once removed, it can be added to a compost pile.
  • Shovel – Raspberries need to be planted about 12 inches deep, so a shovel is going to be the best tool for this.
  • Soil – Raspberries grow best in well-drained soil with a pH of 5.5 – 6.5. Do not plant raspberries in clay soil. The retention of water will rot the roots, and kill the plants. I teach how to easily test and amend your soil in this post.
  • Compost – In addition to well-draining soil with a proper pH, a scoop of compost with manure added will promote the health and production of the plants. To learn more about composting at home, read 7 DIY ways to compost at home.
Young raspberry plant with mulch.

How to Plant Raspberries

These instructions specify bare root raspberry canes. However, transplanting mature raspberry bushes follow these same steps. 

Just bear in mind that raspberry plants that have already produced leaves and buds should never be transplanted until the danger of frost has passed. 

Additionally, steps 1-3 apply only to in-ground planting. When planting in containers or a raised bed, begin at step 4.

  1. The day before planting put the bare root raspberry canes in a bucket of water. The water should only cover the roots. This will stimulate the roots to start drinking water. You don’t want to plant raspberries that are thirsty!
  2. Begin by tilling just the top layer of the ground with about 4-6 passes. If you don’t have a tiller you can dig it by hand, it will just take a little longer.
  3. With a rake (or by hand), remove all grass roots and weeds so they do not re-root and compete for nutrients in the soil. 
  4. Test and amend the soil if needed. The soil's pH level should be around 5.5 – 6.5. Raspberries prefer acidic soil, so if the soil is too alkaline, adding ½ tablespoon of sulfur powder per plant will help add more acid to the soil. 
  5. Dig a hole approximately 12 inches deep for each plant, spacing the holes at least 18 inches apart. The raspberry canes will need some space to spread and put up new growth every year. 
  6. Add a scoop of compost with manure (that is not hot).
  7. Place the raspberry canes in the hole and bury just the roots with your soil and compost mixture. Your soil mixture should be about an inch over the roots.  
  8. Water the soil mixture and roots well, and fill in more soil if the roots are exposed. If roots are exposed it could dry the raspberry cane out. Tamp down the soil lightly around the canes to secure them in place.

* As your raspberry plants grow, it's a good idea to tie them up to keep the canes growing nice and tall instead of out (which causes them to bend over).

Quart jars of freeze dried raspberries.

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Raspberry Leaf Tea Benefits + How to Make Raspberry Leaf Tea

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Red raspberry leaf tea benefits are many, and raspberry leaf tea is good for both male and female health. Learn how to make this delicious tea and start reaping the many benefits.

Raspberry leaves next to a cup of tea.

Disclaimer: I am not a medical professional and this is for informational purposes only, this is not diagnosis or treatment and always check with your medical professional of choice before using anything medicinally.

This drink has been known to help aid the immune system, skin, pregnancy, menstrual periods, and more. 

If you have already learned how to plant raspberries, then I encourage you to make the most out of your crop. Read on to learn more about the benefits, how to harvest, preserve, and make your own organic raspberry leaf tea. 

Why I Make Raspberry Leaf Tea

For those of you who have read my story on how to heal stomach acid naturally, you know that my health journey began when I found myself in my early twenties suffering from acid reflux. It was so bad I was on prescription medications up to six times a day. 

Pursuing a natural lifestyle became my approach to regaining my health, and making my own herbal teas was a great place to start understanding medicinal herbs. (Read this post for how to plant your own tea garden.)

loose leaf tea brewing in handmade pottery mug on counter top with sprinkles of dried herbs on counter and in mason jar

What is Raspberry Leaf Tea

A raspberry plant is great because they provide two crops. The berries make a delicious summertime treat. We eat them straight off the bush, freeze them, freeze dry some, make dehydrated raspberries, and make these raspberry cream cheese muffins.

My favorite hack for making jam is to freeze the raspberries to make low sugar jam during the winter months when I don't mind heating up my kitchen. 

The second and lesser-known crop is the raspberry leaves. Harvested and dried, people have been drinking red raspberry leaf tea as an herbal remedy for hundreds of years. 

Raspberry leaves on a plant.

Raspberry Leaf Tea Benefits for Women

The raspberry leaf has been linked to helping women with balancing hormones, toning the uterus, menstrual cramping, easing heavy menstrual periods, labor and delivery support, morning sickness, and miscarriage prevention.

Raspberry Leaf Tea Benefits for Men  

Raspberry leaf has been known as the “women's herb” but men can use it as well. 

Reasons for men (and additional reasons for women) to use raspberry leaves are improving energy levels, increasing fat metabolism, helping with inflammation of the skin, improving respiratory disorders, and boosting the immune system.  

A woman picking raspberries into a white bowl.

Nutrients in Red Raspberry Leaves

The raspberry leaf contains vitamins and minerals, as well as fragrine alkaloids. 

  • Vitamin A – Increases bone health, builds the immune system, and can help reduce acne.
  • B Vitamins – Promotes cell health, brain function, energy levels, as well as boosting the immune system.
  • Vitamin C – Encourages a healthy immune system.
  • Vitamin E – Promotes vision, brain, skin, blood, and reproductive health.
  • Magnesium –  Aids in muscle and nerve functions and regulation of blood pressure.
  • Potassium – A natural electrolyte that boosts cell and nerve function.
  • Calcium – Supports teeth and bone growth.

Red raspberry leaves also contain a few trace minerals such as chromium, iron, and zinc.

The antioxidants that fight free radicals are in the form of tannins and flavonoids. Tannins do a great job fighting inflammation, protect against heart disease, help with antibacterial effects, and may lower blood pressure. Flavonoids help decrease inflammation.

Fragrine alkaloid is known to tone the smooth muscles of our organs such as the uterine wall.

Young raspberry leaves on a spring plant.

How to Harvest Raspberry Leaves

Now that we know the benefits of red raspberry leaf, let’s get to harvesting!  

Harvesting the leaf is simple. Come mid to late spring (or early summer for autumn-bearing varieties) before the raspberry flower buds come on, pick leaves that are lighter green in color. These are younger leaves and will be less bitter.

Pick leaves in the early part of the day after the dew is gone. This is when the leaves have the highest concentration of natural oils. 

* It is possible to harvest leaves from the plants after the blossoms have bloomed or the fruit has set, but be sure to harvest only the tender young leaves. The medicinal purposes won't be as strong, but it's still better than missing your harvest!

Supplies Needed to Preserve 

  • Raspberry Leaves – Come mid to late spring before the raspberry flower buds come on, pick young light green leaves. For best quality use organic raspberry plants.
  • Dehydrator – The only difference in dehydrators are size, fan size, heating element, and amount of space in the appliance. I have a Nesco dehydrator, but any dehydrator works just fine for this project.
  • Air Tight Container – Jars and lids are great for storage. I often use jars with reusable tattler jar lids. No tea bags needed!
Raspberry leaves on a dehydrator tray.

How to Preserve Raspberry Leaves

  1. Rinse freshly harvested leaves under water, and pat to dry. 
  2. Arrange leaves in a single layer on dehydrator screens. Pro Tip: I bring the dehydrator trays out to the patch and place the leaf on the trays. This way I don’t pick too many leaves.
  3. Turn the dehydrator on the lowest setting, (mine is at 95 degrees Fahrenheit). 
  4. Dehydrate for about 8 hours depending on the moisture content. The leaves are done when they become shrunken, curled up and crumbly.  
  5. Remove the leaves from the trays and store them for up to a year in an airtight container. Try to harvest enough each season to last you the entire year.  
Clay mug with "Pioneering Today" stamped and a tea pot pouring water into the mug.

How to Use Raspberry Leaves for Their Benefits

Raspberry leaves make a delicious herbal tea. Some say the tea tastes like black tea, but I would describe it more like green tea. It’s not as potent or bitter as black tea, and the leaves will not taste like raspberries.   

To make a cup of red raspberry leaf tea, simply add 8 oz. of hot water to 1 tablespoon of dried and crushed raspberry leaves. Let steep for at least 5 minutes, strain and enjoy! 

You can also drink raspberry leaf tea iced. Follow the same brewing method, chill, and serve over ice. For the flavor of fruit tea, you can add a couple of muddled raspberries. 

dried herbs in Mason jar on counter

Want to Learn More?

If you're inspired to start using more medicinal herbs at home, then I encourage you to look into my herbal course in the Pioneering Today Academy where I teach you how to confidently and effectively use a variety of herbs at home.

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Gardening in June (Garden Tasks By Month)

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Come along and garden with me with my monthly gardening feature where I take you into my garden and show you everything I'm doing month-by-month! Here's everything I'm doing in the month of June.

A woman standing next to a large garden bed.

If you caught last month's gardening in May blog post and video, you'll know that here in the Pacific Northwest we had our coldest May (2022) in the last 50 years.

So although I normally have much more growing in the garden by now (especially compared to this time last year, 2021, when we had unusually warm temperatures), we're learning to go with the flow!

Read my gardening tasks in April and gardening tasks in March blog posts here.

Tasks for the Garden in June

Just for reference, I'm in gardening zone 7B, and my last average frost date is April 30th, so you may need to be doing some of these tasks a little sooner or a little later than I, depending on where you live. 

  • Vertical Garden Structures – Our daytime temperatures have finally warmed up into the 60s (although we're still dipping well below that at night), and we were able to get some of our vertical garden structures put into the newly tilled garden (find out how we ruined our no-till garden and how we're adjusting in this post). We like growing crops (namely squash, cucumbers, peas, and pole beans) vertically to not only save on garden space but also because we've noticed an improvement in garden diseases like powdery mildew.
  • Garden Spacing – Because we like to seed save many of our plants, we have to maintain a good distance between the same crop varieties to avoid cross-pollination and to be able to seed save pure seeds year over year. (Learn how to properly store your saved seeds here.)
  • Plant Warm-Weather Crops – Though our soil temps are still down in the 50s (F), we went ahead and planted all our warm-weather crops. They're growing very slowly due to the lack of warmth, but we were already planting so late that I just had to get them in the ground. We also direct-sowed our Brussels sprouts and the rest of the seeds into our main-crop garden (be sure to check back next year to see how those crops are growing!). If you have a high tunnel you can utilize that space for crops like tomatoes (here are my 10 tips for disease-free tomatoes, and learn how to prune your tomato plants for better growth and production here).
  • Purchase Starts – One thing I tend to do in June is to purchase any last-minute plant starts that I need for the growing season. Usually, this will be for plants that I started indoors that just didn't do so well (which we had a lot of issues starting seeds indoors this year due to the potting soil I purchased, learn more about troubleshooting seed-starting problems and soil issues here.) I like to purchase plants from local nurseries or order them from Azure Standard.
  • Keep Records – You all know how much I love to keep records! That's one of the main reasons I wrote The Family Garden Planner so I could have a place to make notes of all my gardening tasks, dates and yields. I'm excited to compare, side-by-side the plants I purchased vs. the seeds I direct-sowed into the ground (learn how to direct sow seeds here.)
  • Thin Seedlings – If you started seeds last month, now is the time to start thinning out your seedlings to allow for continued growth. In my garden, this means I'll be thinning out my carrots. I left a few carrots in the ground from the year before so I could save the seed (carrots are biennial and flower in their second year), and I must have missed a blossom because they volunteered in the garden this year!
  • Harvest Cool-Weather Crops – If you're fortunate enough to have some cool-weather crops ready to harvest then now is the time! Clear that garden space, amend the soil (if necessary), and get more seeds planted!
  • Hill Up Potatoes – I always plant my potatoes in trenches because it makes it much easier to hill them up for better growth and production later on. Learn more about growing potatoes in this post here. See how I store my potatoes in the ground all winter long here. And learn how to prevent or eliminate early blight on potato plants here.
  • Plan Out Succession Crops – We like to store potatoes in the ground all winter long, but in order to do this, they need to be ready to harvest just before your first frost. Because of this, we actually have some fallow ground in the garden right now that I'm saving to plant more seed potatoes and the fall garden in the middle of July. (See what crops you can plant in late summer for a fall harvest here.)

And that's a wrap for June! Stay tuned to see what gardening tasks I'll be doing next month in June. Oh! And because every time I wear them I get asked about my boots, you can find my Xtratuf boots here.

Cucumber seedlings growing next to a cattle panel trellis.
Green beans growing at the base of a cattle panel trellis.

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Vertical Garden Planning & Expanding Growing Spaces

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Learn the best vertical garden methods to expand your growing spaces. When you first started gardening, a single raised bed may have been enough. But once you fall in love with gardening you'll soon be finding ways to expand your growing spaces each year!

A woman in a bean tunnel picking beans.

There are a lot of different ways that you can expand your garden and your growing space so that you can grow more food.

Sometimes that means putting in more garden beds and doing expansion that way, other times it means looking at different methods of growing.

I always recommend growing your plants vertically before expanding the garden space to really maximize the existing space you already have with little extra effort.

In this post (and the video below) I'm sharing all the ways we've expanded our garden to grow vertically.

A hill of potatoes in a garden. The green tops have died back.

Plant a Multi-Seasonal Garden

If you're limited to the amount of space you have, one way to expand your garden (without expanding the footprint at all) is to plant a multi-seasonal garden.

That means you'll plant leafy greens and brassicas in early spring. Plant the warm-weather crops in late spring or early summer. And plant a third planting of some of those cooler-weather-loving crops in late summer for a fall garden (see the 28 crops to plant in your fall garden here).

Woman and her daughter picking green beans growing on a vertical trellis.

Trellis

Cattle Panel Trellis

We love using cattle panels bent over as a trellis to grow peas, beans, cucumbers, and squash.

Growing these vining or sprawling plants up also clears a lot of garden space that these plants would otherwise cover. So by taking them up, I'm actually increasing my planting space in my existing garden.

A woman kneeling beside a grape arbor full of grape vines.

Grape Arbor Trellis

We grow our grapes on an arbor that provides great shade during the summer.

The arbor is a permanent structure that goes up and over our walkway and the actual grapevines take up about a square foot of space on each side of the arbor.

That's not much space at all!

A woman bending forward amongst echinacea flowers.

Perennial Beds

A great way to expand your garden is by building some perennial beds that will house those crops that will come back year over year. Some people like to build these up high so they're easy to access.

Even a nice planter on your back porch or deck can be handy because they're easy to maintain and water.

Vertical container planter with strawberries on cement patio

Container Gardening

Vertical/Tower Planters

If you've been around here for long, you know how much I love my Greenstalk vertical planter.

I grow mostly strawberries in mine because, here in the Pacific Northwest, the slugs love to get to my strawberries (but I do have ducks coming soon to help with slug patrol!).

Since growing strawberries up off the ground in this planter, the slugs haven't found them in three years!

I also add the top tier of the planter on once the weather is warm enough. The beauty of this planter is I can start seeds indoors, then transfer them outside when I'm ready. I use the top tier to grow my basil plants.

The beauty of this planter is that I'm getting about 60 square feet of gardening space in just over 1 square foot of actual real estate.

Check out all the different Greenstalk planters here, and use code “PIONEERING” for $10 off your order!

A woman crouched beside an herb planter with sage and mint.

Pots & Garden Boxes

You can use various sized pots on areas like a patio (where you couldn't add an in-ground garden) to expand your growing space.

Perennial herbs such as mint, thyme and oregano do very well in containers as they have roots that will send out shoots and take over a garden area. Growing them in containers keeps them contained to that area.

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Strawberry Jam Recipe without Pectin and Low Sugar

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This low sugar no pectin strawberry jam recipe is our favorite. Step-by-step tutorial for a homemade strawberry jam without pectin and tons of flavor. Every home needs an easy strawberry jam recipe without pectin (specifically store-bought pectin) and low sugar. Because I'm a firm believer your jam shouldn't have more sugar than it does fruit.

jars of strawberry jam on wooden table, strawberry jam in Mason jars stacked on each other

Like any pioneer woman, the beginning of summer marks jam and jelly season on our homestead. Whether its fresh-picked cherries for homemade cherry jam, juicy and plump blackberries for blackberry jam or even juicy peaches for this amazing spicy peach jam. Fingers are sure to be stained with the berry of the moment and snack breaks are taken at the bush with the ripest fruit.

Homemade strawberry preserves are the first berry recipes to hit my canning jars come spring. My husband loves strawberry jam, it is his absolute favorite. I've yet to meet a jam I didn't like, but he's partial to this one.

If you're nervous about canning, don't be! Read here about safely canning jams and jellies, and this is a fantastic canning 101 post that every new home canner should read.

One of the reasons we preserve our own food is so we have a fully stocked pantry that isn't dependent upon the grocery store, is healthier without chemicals and GMO ingredients, and to save money. Using a strawberry jam recipe without store-bought pectin and low sugar keeps us within these guidelines and is how the pioneers and our great-grandmother's made jam. Because I want my homemade strawberry jam to taste like strawberries, not a bucketful of sugar.

Resources for Easy Homemade Strawberry Jam 

If you already have jars (canning jars will last for decades as long as they're not chipped), then your only cost is for lids, sugar, and lemons (we're assuming you're growing your strawberries, but if not, then there will be the cost for those as well). The good news for this recipe is there's no need for store-bought commercial pectin which cuts your cost even more with this low sugar no pectin strawberry jam recipe.

Have you ever wondered if home canning is really worth it? And does it save money to can food at home?

To can strawberry jam you'll need:

  • Canning Jars
  • Canning Lids & Bands
  • Large Canning Pot
  • Funnel & Canning Tools
  • Towel
  • Strawberries
  • Sugar
  • Lemons

How To Freeze Strawberry Jam

You absolutely can freeze this strawberry jam instead of canning it. However, we prefer to can it over making a freezer jam because we like to be prepared for power outages, and no one wants to eat gobs and gobs of jam if the power goes out (OK, maybe we do…but it's not ideal!).

This recipe can be canned, as described, stored directly in the refrigerator (best within 4-6 weeks) or stored in the freezer (best within 2-3 months). Just be sure to cool jam completely before placing in the freezer to prevent jars from cracking.

Healthier Strawberry Jam Recipe

What makes this strawberry jam recipe healthy? Well, I don't know about you, but a homemade jam that contains more sugar or as much sugar as it does fruit just doesn't sit right with me. Not only is this low sugar strawberry jam recipe healthier, but it's also much more frugal without pectin from the store and loads of sugar.

Plus, I'm all about recipes that don't rely on store-bought items. Does anyone else feel they were born a century too late and should have been besties with Laura Ingall's Wilder in Little House on the Prairie? You, too?! Good, grab your apron, your Mason jars, and let's get to jamming.

Sources of Natural Pectin

Lemon and apples are both very high in natural pectin. My grandmother never used pectin and you don't have to either. We're using lemon juice in our recipe to naturally set our jam. It may not seem like it's going to work but trust me, you just have to cook it a bit longer than the store-bought pectin recipes… but it will get there, I promise!

Surprisingly, you just get a hint of the lemon, so if you want it to be stronger, add the juice of one more lemon. Think strawberry lemonade in a jam. Oh, yes, don't mind if I do.

Resources for Easy Homemade Strawberry Jam 

  • Our FREE Jam & Jelly Troubleshooting Guide– how to test if your jam has reached the setting or gelled point before putting in jars and processing, what 3 easy steps to take if it's not reaching the gel point, and how to salvage it if it didn't gel. Bonus, the fruit acidity and pectin level chart! When you sign up for our FREE Guide you'll get the option for a super special price to join our Home Fruit Preservation e-Course!
  • Classic Zester – this little beauty makes getting that pectin-packed luscious lemon zest into your strawberry jam without the bitter pith so easy.
  • Stainless Steel Canner – (Safe for glass top stoves) this water bath canner won't rust like the granite wear runs and will be your trusty sidekick in the kitchen for years to come.
  • 6 Piece Canning Set – The jar lifter is worth five times the price of this. The best part, this 6 piece set is 79% off at the time of posting. I use mine with every canning project and can't believe I ever canned without it. No more burnt fingers!
  • 8-ounce jelly jars – These are the perfect size for jam and jelly making. I use these for pickled garlic as well. Can you ever have too many canning jars? In case you were wondering, the answer is no my friend.Two canning jars filled with homemade strawberry jam with strawberries on the table around it.

Strawberry Jam Ingredients

  • Strawberries (rinsed and hulled, before mashing)
  • Sugar
  • Lemon Juice (and zest)

Can I Make Jam Using Frozen Strawberries?

Although it's not ideal to use frozen strawberries for this recipe, they will certainly work. Just understand your cooking time will be much longer due to the extra water content of the frozen berries. No need to defrost berries first, just toss them into the pot and let them defrost as you crush them up.

How To Fix A Jam That Didn't Set Up

If your jam is not fully set after canning, you can fix it! Don't despair! All your hard work has not gone to waste. Before you open each jar, be sure your jam is completely cool. Jam continues to set up as it cools, so it may just be that your jam is still too hot.

If your jam is still runny once cooled to room temperature, simply open up all your jars and dump the jam back into your pot. Continue cooking until your jam passes the sheeting test.

The sheeting test means your jam will be thick enough to stick to the back of a frozen spoon without dripping off (or it may come off in one sheet!). But if you get little drops or even larger drops of jam, you'll want to continue cooking it to allow it to thicken further.

How To Make Homemade Strawberry Jam

Instructions for canning homemade strawberry jam:

  1. Wash jars and bands in hot soapy water and keep warm. Fill water bath canner with water and put on medium heat.
  2. Add fresh strawberries to the pot. Crush strawberries with a potato masher or immersion blender to desired consistency (could also puree in the blender first). I prefer mine chunky, but my husband likes it more pureed. Pot filled with cooked down strawberry jam and lemon zest inside.
  3. Place strawberries, sugar, lemon juice, and lemon zest into a large pot. Stir until well combined and sugar is dissolved. Bring berries to a boil (if you have a candy thermometer jam sets at 220 degrees Fahrenheit, taking out the guesswork).  Stir frequently to keep sugar from scorching.
  4. Simmer on a low boil for 20 minutes stirring constantly. You can test the set of the jam by the sheeting test. Place a metal spoon in the freezer when you begin making your jam. Cooking time will vary depending on the water content of the berries.
  5. After the 20 minutes of boiling, use the chilled metal spoon to ladle out a spoonful of jam. Hold the spoon and watch the way the jam drips off of the spoon. If its little individual drops, the jam is not set, if it’s big goops, it’s almost there. If it comes off the spoon in a sheet or doesn’t really drop off at all, then the jam is set, yank that baby off the heat. Woman holding up a spoon covered in jelly that's thick and not dripping off.
  6. Place jars on a dishtowel. Fill jars leaving a ¼ inch headspace (1/4 gap from the top of the jam to the top of the jar). A canning funnel will be your best friend during this part.
  7. With a clean damp towel, wipe down the rim of the jar. Place lids on, then bands, and screw down to finger tight.
  8. Immerse jars in boiling water bath canner inside the canning rack, making sure water covers the tops of the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Once water is boiling, set timer for 10 minutes and allow jars to process.
  9. When time is up, turn off the heat. After 5 minutes remove jars from canner. Place on a towel folded in thirds in a draft-free area. Allow to cool and set overnight or for at least 12 hours. Check seals. If the center of the lid gives, then store in the refrigerator and eat soon.
  10. If jars are sealed, wipe down with a damp cloth and store in the pantry out of the light for up to a year.

Makes approximately 4 half-pint jars

Note: Always inspect your jars of jam and jelly before using it. If the seal is broken, if the jar is leaking, if you detect an off odor, off appearance, or any signs of mold, do not eat or taste it. Throw it out.

Check the seal when you go to use a jar, even if it sealed when you put it in the pantry. Seals can sometimes come undone over time.

jars of strawberry jam on white towel
https://melissaknorris.lpages.co/jam-freebie-low-sugar-home-page/

Strawberry Jam Recipe without Pectin and Low Sugar

Melissa Norris
A delicious low sugar strawberry jam recipe that let's the fruit flavor shine instead of sickly sweet sugar. Best part, this strawberry jam recipe without pectin means no purchasing extra ingredients!
4.2 from 184 votes
Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Prep Time 15 mins
Cook Time 30 mins
Course fruit
Cuisine American
Servings 4 8 ounce jars

Ingredients
 
 

  • 8 cups strawberries rinsed and hulled, before mashing (will equal approximately 4 cups smashed depending on how fine you smash them)
  • 3 cups sugar
  • Zest from 2 lemons
  • ¼ cup lemon juice
  • 1 medium apple in place of lemon juice and zest

Instructions
 

  • Wash jars and bands in hot soapy water and keep warm. Fill water bath canner with water and put on medium heat.
  • Mash berries with a potato masher, blender, or immersion blender to desired consistency. I prefer mine chunky, but my husband likes it more pureed. (Note, liquid or pureed berries take longer to reach the gelling point)
  • Place berries, sugar, lemon juice, and lemon zest (or grated apple if using in place of lemon) into large pot. Stir until well combined. Bring berries to a boil.  Stir frequently to keep sugar from scorching.
  • Simmer on a low boil for 20 minutes.You can test the set of the jam by the sheeting test. Place a metal spoon in the freezer when you begin making your jam.
  • After the 20 minutes of boiling, use the chilled metal spoon to ladle out a spoonful of jam. Hold the spoon and watch the way the jam drips off of the spoon. If its little individual drops, jam is not set, if it’s big goops, it’s almost there. If it comes off the spoon in a sheet or doesn’t really drop off at all, then jam is set, yank that baby off the heat.
  • Place jars on a dish towel. Fill jars with a ¼ inch from the top with jam. A canning funnel will be your best friend during this part. With a clean damp towel, wipe down rim of jar. Place lids on, then bands, and screw down to finger tight.
  • Immerse jars in water bath canner inside the canning rack, making sure water covers the tops of the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Once water is boiling, set timer for 10 minutes and allow jars to process.
  • When time is up, turn off heat. Wait 5 minutes and then remove jars from canner. Place on a towel folded in thirds in a draft free area. Allow to cool and set overnight or for at least 12 hours.
  • Check seals. If the center of the lid gives, then store in the fridge and eat soon.
  • If jars are sealed, wipe down with a damp cloth and store in the pantry out of the light for up to a year

Notes

  • Because we're not using store bought pectin the cook time to reach a gel point can vary based on the ripeness and water content of your berries at harvest.
  • Liquid or pureed berries take longer to reach the gelling point
  • One reader wrote in saying the lemon flavor in a batch she did that didn't set was strong, but after re-cooking the jam until it reached its gelling point, the lemon flavor is barely detectable.
  • Please download the free Never Buy Jam or Jelly E-book with our troubleshooting guide if your jam is not gelling for help.
  • Always inspect your jars of jam and jelly before using. If the seal is broken, the jar is leaking, off odor, off appearance, or any signs of mold, do not eat or taste it. Throw it out. Check the seal when you go to use a jar, even if it sealed when you put it in the pantry. Seals can sometimes come undone over time.
Keyword low sugar strawberry jam, strawberry jam recipe, strawberry jam recipe without pectin
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There you have it, all the tips and instructions to make delicious homemade low sugar strawberry jam without store-bought pectin!

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How to Grow Brussel Sprouts for Maximum Harvest

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Learn how to grow Brussels sprouts the best way whether directly sown or starting from seed, and growing in a garden bed or a plant in a container. These easy tips do not take long, but you will need to follow them to ensure the best harvest possible.

Brussels sprouts growing on a stalk in the garden.

Read on to learn why it’s no wonder Brussels sprouts are included in my top 28 crops to plant in the fall.

Why You Should Learn How to Grow Brussel Sprouts

Knowing how to grow enough food to feed a family for a year is becoming an increasingly popular topic in our culture but has always been a cornerstone of this pioneer lifestyle. 

In the past, I have taught how to grow a large-scale garden without acreage, how to avoid common gardening mistakes, and shared gardening tips every beginner should know.

Brussel sprouts are a great choice when looking for a highly nutritious addition to your self-sufficient homestead. By weight, Brussels sprouts are denser in calories, fiber, protein, and vitamins (A, C, and K), and have a milder flavor than cabbage.

When asked “Are Brussels sprouts easy to grow?”, you can be assured that when you know these simple basic guidelines, you can expect success in your garden too.

Before Planting

It is important to know that, like all other brassicas, Brussels sprouts are heavy nitrogen feeders. (Brassica is a grouping of the cabbage family that includes Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, collard greens, turnips, and kale.)

To ensure Brussels sprouts receive the amount of nitrogen needed, a quick soil test in the fall is best. This allows time for proper amendments to be made before planting in the spring.

Because Brussels sprouts remove so much nitrogen from the soil, there should be at least three years between planting a new crop of Brussels sprouts in the same place. 

During these years, crop rotation can be practiced where other crops can be planted that replenish the nitrogen in the soil, and prepare it for Brussels sprouts once again. To learn more about crop rotation, read crop rotation based on plant families.

A photo of a garden that has been mulched with woodchips.

Supplies Needed

Brussels sprouts in a colander on a blue towel.

When to Plant and Harvest Brussel Sprouts

Brussel sprouts are a crop that requires a long growing season (anywhere from 80-200 days). In ideal growing conditions, each plant can produce up to 50 sprouts.

It is best to plant from seed in mid to late summer or 6-10 weeks before the first hard frost. Brussel sprouts grow just fine in cool weather, and the flavor is greatly improved by a frost.

Because of this, we try not to harvest our Brussels sprouts until after the first frost. 

Pro Tip: If you struggle with slugs, cabbage loopers, or other garden pests, Brussels sprouts can be started indoors from seed, and transplanted after they have established healthy seedlings that are more resistant. You can read my step-by-step seed starting tutorial here, and I share more natural pest control methods here for you as well.

A woman putting a plastic frost protector over a broccoli plant.

How to Plant Brussel Sprouts

  1. Select a site with full sun and nitrogen-rich soil.
  2. Sow seeds about ½ inch deep and 3-4 inches apart. (Planted seeds should germinate within 7-12 days and will need to be thinned with 2 feet spacing after they have a few sets of leaves.) When planting seedlings, wait until they are 4-6 inches tall and have a couple of sets of leaves. Plant seedlings 2 feet apart, and water well.
  3. Water often by checking the soil regularly. Water whenever the top inch of soil shows dryness. To help retain moisture, add mulch after the seedlings mature. I share my experience with using wood chips as garden mulch here.
  4. Every 2-3 weeks, add an organic nitrogen-rich fertilizer such as this fish emulsion fertilizer when watering.
Brussels sprouts growing on a stalk in the garden.

Pruning and Caring for Brussel Sprouts for High Yields

Brussel sprout leaves will start to yellow and decay around the bottom of the plant.  Trim these off with a knife or trimmers to allow more airflow. This is especially important as you head into those rainy fall months. 

Trimming off the lower leaves also allows the plant to put more energy into growing the Brussels sprouts and less energy into the leaves promoting a better winter harvest. 

It is recommended to continue to trim the leaves up the stalk as the Brussels sprouts are harvested.

Topping the plant will also help force the plant to concentrate its energy into forming Brussels sprouts. Ideally, you’ll want to do this two to three weeks before your first hard frost. To top the plant, simply remove the top three inches of the stalk with a clean cut.  

Pro-tip: Planting companion plants around Brussels sprouts will help keep insects and other pests away. I’ve planted orange nasturtiums around the base of mine. To learn more about this method read my tips on companion planting for a healthier garden.

orange nasturtium to repel cabbage moth

More Gardening Tips and Tutorials

How to Prune Basil Plants to Double Your Harvest

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Whether you plant in an indoor Aerogarden, grow in a pot or container garden, or grow using a raised garden bed, learning how to prune basil properly (before it flowers) will stimulate growth and double your harvest. 

A pot of basil on a deck.

Read on to learn all about caring for basil, sage, and mint, including a step-by-step pruning tutorial and video demonstration.

Why Prune Herbs

Properly pruning herbs actually helps to stimulate growth and results in a fuller, healthier plant.

Basil, mint, and sage grow easily, and pruning them will give you big bushy plants rather than tall spindly plants that are not sturdy and don't produce well.

When pruning is neglected and plants are allowed to produce flowers, this signals the plant that the growing season is over, and it’s time to produce seeds for the following year.

Pruning encourages the plant to continue to grow and produce leaves for a maximum harvest.

Additionally, when basil flowers form, the leaves become bitter and no longer produce an optimal flavor profile.

A woman pointing to a blossom forming on a basil plant.

When to Prune Basil, Mint, or Sage

Sage, mint, or basil seedlings with tiny leaves will need time to establish after planting. Wait to begin pruning the plant until it is at least six inches tall and producing leaves.

The flowers of the basil plant should be pinched off as buds begin to form (in the photo above, I'm pointing to a cluster that's about to form a flower).

I would encourage you to pinch off the buds and pinch the leaves every couple of weeks. This encourages the plant to grow more leaves instead of putting its energy into forming flowers. 

Trimming leafy herbs will also increase the flavor and give you stronger medicinal properties (learn the best drying methods for medicinal herbs here). You can be aggressive when trimming leafy herbs because they grow quickly. 

A woman's hand pruning mint with pruning sheers.

Supplies Needed

A woman's hand pruning sage.

How to Prune Basil, Sage and Mint the Right Way

  1. Begin by pinching off any buds or flowers that have formed.
  2. Next, find a set of leaves across from each other at the top of the plant and cut the main stem to trim the basil, sage, or mint right above that. This will cause that spot to branch off into two more branches, making your plant healthier and fuller and giving you a greater harvest.
  3. Repeat this process with each branch.
  4. Lightly rinse harvested herbs and gently pat them to dry. 

Pro Tip: There is a common misconception when pruning leafy herbs that you should remove the largest leaves on the bottom branches. Pruning those large bottom leaves will actually hurt your plant. Those big leaves are taking in the most sunlight to feed your plants, and pruning leaves from the bottom won’t help your plant to create new branches and more leaves.

Bundles of fresh herbs tied with twine and hanging upside down to dry.

How to Use Harvested Herbs

Fresh herbs provide a delicious punch of flavor and can be used in a variety of ways.

Learning how to dry herbs and making your own culinary herb blends are also an amazing way to add flavor to your food. 

Pro Tip: Dried basil does not have the same flavor punch as fresh basil so my favorite way to preserve basil is in salt.

A woman crouched beside an herb planter with sage and mint.

Tips When Pruning Basil, Sage, and Mint

  • When harvesting for flavor and medicinal purposes, look for bright green growth.
  • Prune the plant where any leaves show signs of damage or yellowing.
  • Leafy herbs bruise easily which releases the aroma of the essential oils. In order to keep every bit of flavor in the leaves, use a tender hand when harvesting.
  • Harvesting herbs is best done in the morning. Herbs have the highest concentration of essential oils in their leaves after the dew has dried, but before the sun heats up the plant. Basil is the exception to this rule and can be picked later in the day.
  • To harvest mint, you can begin plucking leaves in the spring as soon as the plant is leafy and continue to harvest as often as possible. As with basil and sage, it’s important to prune right above two leaves across from each in order to encourage good bushy growth.
  • When harvesting sage, prune off the top big leaves or again you can look for two leaves growing across from each other and prune there to encourage more growth. Remember, you want to encourage your plants to grow bushier rather than tall so they don't fall over.

More Herb Tips and Tutorials

How to Plant Strawberries + Tips for Success

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Strawberries growing on the vine.

Take out the guesswork and learn how to plant strawberries either from bare root or by transplanting seedlings in this easy step-by-step tutorial.

Whether your strawberry bed is in-ground, a raised bed, or a pot, these tips will make the most of your efforts to get the maximum harvest. Included are instructions on how to care for strawberry plants in order to grow and keep them healthy all winter long.

Why You Should Learn How to Plant Strawberries

Have you ever been disappointed when you bought strawberries at the store? You bite into the bright red berry, and it has no flavor at all! No matter how beautiful a berry may look, it is the taste that counts. 

Nothing says summer to me quite like fresh, ripe strawberries. They are not only good to eat fresh, but also delicious baked into desserts. 

Try any of the following recipes using your strawberry harvest:

Growing strawberries at home is the solution to the disappointment with store-bought berries. Allow me to teach you a few tips to show you how to plant strawberries so that you can have a successful berry harvest that tastes as it should.

Even if you have limited space, you can still grow strawberries. They actually do quite well planted in a pot or hanging baskets on your patio. I grow mine in my Greenstalk vertical tower garden (use code “PIONEERING” for $10 off your order!).

This gives you the flexibility to move them to a protected area during the winter months if needed, or follow the sun in the spring.

Vertical container planter with strawberries on cement patio

Strawberry Types and Varieties

Types of Strawberry Plants

There are several different types of strawberry plants. We plant a bed of each kind because they serve different purposes.

  • June-bearing Plants – They produce one large crop from mid-June through early July. You harvest all of the berries at the same time, which is preferable if you are preserving the berries.
  • Ever-bearing Plants – They produce two different crops. One is ready in the early summer and the other in early fall. This is a great option if you enjoy eating berries fresh.
  • Day-neutral Varieties – These plants have a longer harvest season and are often grown on plastic mulch.

Varieties of Strawberry Plants

Within the different types of strawberries, you can then choose a variety based on your growing zone, flavor preferences, and even your long-term goals. A few common varieties that do well are:

  • Earliglow – These are June-bearing, suitable for colder climates, and produce a firm, delicious berry. They are a vigorous plant and great for beginners.
  • Honeoye – These are a very productive June-bearing variety. They have an excellent flavor, are disease resistant, and are easy to grow. 
  • Ogallala – An Ever-bearing type that is drought resistant and very flavorful.

Pro Tip: If you choose a few different types/varieties of strawberries, you will have fruit most of the growing season.

A basket full of strawberries.

How Do Strawberries Grow?

Strawberries are a perennial plant that will continue to give you multiple years' worth of harvest if taken care of properly. 

Each plant produces several flowers that have yellow centers and white petals. After the yellow center is pollinated, the white petals will die off, and the yellow center then develops into the berry. 

Strawberries spread via runners that re-root and grow new plants. A container or raised bed can keep them contained in the area you want them to grow. 

Best Location To Plant Strawberries

Strawberry plants will require at least six hours of full sun. They also prefer well-drained soil. Containers, pots, and raised strawberry beds are great options for strawberries. It gives home gardeners more control over the soil as well as allowing you to choose the sunlight location. 

Pro Tip: If you are building containers or beds with wood, make sure any lumber you use is non-treated for your edible beds. Cedar is water-resistant and slow rotting, so it makes a great choice.

Dozens of strawberry plants growing in grow bags in nice orderly lines.

When is the Best Time to Plant Strawberries

The best time to plant bare-root strawberries is in the early spring as soon as the ground has thawed and is workable. However, if you have strawberry seedlings, the best time will be after the danger of frost has passed.

A strawberry plant being planted in the soil.

Supplies Needed

  • Strawberry Seedlings or Bare Root Plants – Keep in mind seedlings should be planted after any danger of frost has passed.
  • Soil – Strawberries don’t require heavy fertilization, but they will benefit from an organic compost potting soil mix. To learn how to make your own compost, check out these 7 DIY ways to compost at home. Additionally, strawberries need to be kept moist, but their roots don’t tolerate standing water. Good drainage is a must! If you have clay soil, make sure to amend it with a good compost mix. You can learn how to easily test and amend your soil here.
  • Shovel – Strawberries don’t need to be planted too deeply, so a garden trowel works well.
  • Sunshine – Strawberries require at least 6 hours of full sun per day, and will do even better with more.
  • Water – Bare root plants will need to be soaked in water for at least 30 minutes to an hour before planting. Take care to only submerge the roots in the water. For tips on garden watering strategies, check out the best way to water a vegetable garden.
Strawberries in 4 inch pots.

How To Plant Strawberries

  1. If planting bare roots, soak in water at least 30 minutes before planting.
  2. For container planting choose a pot at least 8 inches in diameter and 6 inches deep for each plant. For in-ground and raised bed planting, dig a hole about 4-6 inches deep. The recommended distance between June-bearing strawberry plants is 15-24 inches and Ever-bearing plants is 10-18 inches apart.
    Pro Tip: Strawberries can be susceptible to fungus, so keeping space for good air circulation is your best defense. If you plant them at the minimum spacing suggestions, you’ll need to keep the runners removed so your plants don’t become crowded. An additional benefit is the berries will ripen more quickly if they’re not crammed together!
  3. Firm up a cone of soil in the center of the hole. 
  4. Place the strawberry plant on the cone and arrange the roots around the cone. Fill in the hole with soil, and tamp down lightly.
  5. Water the strawberry plant, making sure the crown of the plant remains at soil level or slightly above.
Strawberries ready to pick off the vine.

Caring For Strawberry Plants

  • Spring – After you have planted the strawberries in early spring, make sure to pinch off any flowers that bud for the first few weeks. You want the plants to conserve energy for when they pollinate and produce fruit. Looking for more direction on what to do in the garden during the spring? Check out gardening in March, gardening in April, and gardening in May where I break down each garden task by month.
  • Summer – During the summer, as the runners start to grow, turn them in the direction you want them to fill in your garden and press the ends gently into the soil. Continue to water and fertilize (compost) the plants throughout harvesting.
  • Fall – When the plants stop producing fruit and the temperature drops, cover the plants with 6” of straw mulch to protect them through the winter months.
  • Winter – For in-ground planting and raised beds, the straw mulch will be enough to protect the plants over the winter. However, you should move potted strawberries into a high tunnel, garage, or another shelter that will protect them from extreme freezing temperatures. Alternatively, you can bury plastic pots (not terracotta) so that the top of the pot is flush with the ground. Looking for more direction on what to do in the garden during the winter?
A woman kneeling down in the garden harvesting tomatoes into a basket.

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Where to Find Morel Mushrooms

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Morel mushrooms are a delicacy that many of us can’t wait to hunt for every spring season. However, where to find morel mushrooms is the million-dollar question! A great morel mushroom hunter will not quickly give up his or her “spot”, but they will likely share their tips on when they grow and the best type of terrain to find them.

Morel mushrooms in a group growing in the wild.

If you are successful and find some of these coveted treasures, try cooking them up in this delicious quiche recipe.

*Disclaimer-this post is strictly for educational purposes. We are in no way liable if you pick morels or any other mushroom and become sick or suffer from any type of reaction or illness. Please pick responsibly.  

Why I Love Morel Mushroom Hunting

Living off the land has been something my family has practiced for generations. Learning to forage morel mushrooms is one of those practices that has been handed down through the generations.

Hunting for morel mushrooms is one of our favorite springtime activities. Growing up, we didn’t take family vacations because my father worked all year long. However, we did go morel mushroom hunting.

Mushroom hunting season always reminded me of an Easter egg hunt. Except, we were searching for mushrooms, and it lasted longer. We searched the leaf-carpeted forest floor for signs of the mushrooms and yelled loudly when we spotted one.

Morel mushrooms in a basket on the forest floor.

Where to Find Morel Mushrooms

Morel mushrooms are fungi. Soil temperatures and moisture are determining factors for when and where they grow.

Morels won’t grow if the soil is too hot or too cold, and they thrive in a moist environment. For this reason, you will often find them growing underneath last year’s fallen leaves.

If you live near a forest that has been clear cut, the ground has been disturbed, or a wildfire has burned through, expect to find more morels in these areas.

Morel mushroom hunters should be on the lookout for recent disturbances (or even dying trees) that still have foliage growth. The morel fungus will be trying to attach to the remaining foliage so that it can disperse and reproduce.

When Can You Find Morel Mushrooms?

Morel mushrooms will start growing in the spring after a good, warm rain. If you live where stinging nettles grow, watch for them to start popping up, and you’ll know the morels will be following suit!

Morel mushrooms will grow quickly, so we check for them every three days once the signs are out. The first one is usually the hardest to spot. Once you’ve found one, your eye becomes trained and knows what it’s looking for.

Morel mushrooms in a cast iron pan.

How to Find Morel Mushrooms

Now that we know when and where to find morel mushrooms, let’s talk about how to find them.

Of course, this is easiest if you know that the spot you are searching already has mushrooms!

The best method I have found is to scan the ground in a grid-like pattern. Inspect the area as you would a map. Look at it from every angle, scanning the area a few feet in front of you, and then move out with your eyes while walking slowly.

Pro Tip: If you find one, look closely. They usually have a mate!

What Do I Do With Morel Mushrooms?

Soak morels overnight in salt water @MelissaKNorris
  • Harvest – Carefully cut or pinch off the morel leaving the stem intact. This leaves the root in the ground and allows it to produce morels again. If you pull up the stem and roots, you cut into future harvests.

  • Carry – I like to carry a mesh bag with me, so the spores repopulate the area while I continue searching. Be sure to not overfill whatever container you choose to place the morel mushrooms into. The weight of too many can smash the mushrooms and ruin them. 
  • Clean – When you get the morels home, you will need to soak them overnight. Since they grow in the forest, they might have small bugs or worms on them. If you can see lots of worms or bites, it’s best to discard them. Place the mushrooms in a bowl of cold water and sprinkle them with salt. Cover them completely and store them in the fridge overnight.
Dozens of morel mushrooms laid out on a cutting board.

How Do I Identify Morel Mushrooms?

Morel mushrooms have a very distinct look and come in all sorts of colors. I have never found black morels, but I have found white and yellow morels.

Look for mushrooms that have a cone-shaped top with lots of deep crevices resembling a sponge. They will be hollow inside if they are true morel mushrooms.

What Are False Morel Mushrooms?

If you have never hunted for a wild mushroom, it is best if you find an experienced hunter or take a field guide with you. There are many poisonous mushrooms that can lead to extreme sickness and even death. Make sure you are finding edible mushrooms!

There is only one type of false morel. A real morel will have a wrinkly cap, a very distinct look, and be hollow inside. False morels look the same as true morels on the outside but will not be hollow on the inside.

A closeup of a hand picking a morel mushroom.

Additional FAQs

What Is the Best Time of Day to Find Morel Mushrooms?

The best time of day is in the early morning. The angle of the sun helps to light up the mushrooms and makes them easier to find.

During the day, the warmth from the sun can also dry up the mushrooms causing them to shrivel which makes it more difficult to spot them.

What Month Can You Find Morel Mushrooms?

The best month to hunt for morel mushrooms is somewhat dependent on where you live, but the morel mushrooms season is usually from April to the middle of May.

What Is the Best State to Find Morel Mushrooms In?

There really isn’t a specific state in the US to recommend. Temperature and moisture conditions in each state are what determine when and where to find morel mushrooms.

Purple dead nettle growing in a patch.

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